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Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
03/07/2024 - Climbing
Climbing the Buggerru sea stack in Sardinia. By Maurizio Oviglia
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
18/06/2024 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Nevado Pisco in Peru by Pou brothers & Micher Quito
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Micher Quito have completed the first ascent of 'Pisco Sour' on the SW Face of Nevado Pisco (5780m) in Peru. The 640m mixed route breaches difficulties up to 85°/M6 and was climbed in a 20-hour push on 12 June 2024.
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
30/05/2024 - Climbing
Soline Kentzel repeats Le Voyage at Annot
A fortnight ago French rock climber Soline Kentzel climbed her hardest route to date, Le Voyage (E10/8b+) at Annot in France. First ascended by James Pearson in 2017, the route is still ranked as one of the hardest trad climbs in France.
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
29/05/2024 - Climbing
Blind climber Jesse Dufton ascends Devil's Tower, USA
British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...
Sellaronda Skimarathon 2025 set for 14 March
28/05/2024 - Competitions
Sellaronda Skimarathon 2025 set for 14 March
The date for the 31st edition of Sellaronda Skimarathon has been set on Friday 14th March 2025. Val Gardena will host the start and finish of the incredible night ski mountaineering marathon.
Cool new multipitch on Transatlantico in Italy's Sarca Valley
17/05/2024 - Climbing
Cool new multipitch on Transatlantico in Italy's Sarca Valley
The report by Daniele Bolognani who, with Silvia Bert made the ground-up first ascent of the multipitch rock climb 'Il sole e la luna' on Transatlantico in Valle del Sarca close to Arco, Italy.
Petzl Legend Tour / Watch Federica Mingolla climb Grand Capucin in the footsteps of Walter Bonatti
13/05/2024 - Alpinism
Petzl Legend Tour / Watch Federica Mingolla climb Grand Capucin in the footsteps of Walter Bonatti
Walter Bonatti, Mont Blanc, his mountaineering. The new episode of the Petzl Legend Tour Italy takes you on a journey through history and time. After a visit to the National Museum of the Mountain, Federica Mingolla and Alberto Boschiazzo climb to the summit of Grand Capucin via the 'Bonatti-Ghigo' route,...
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
24/04/2024 - Alpinism
Genís Zapater Bargués, Alastair Mcdowell complete Aoraki Traverse in New Zealand in 26 hours
In November 2023 mountain guides Genís Zapater Bargués and Alastair Mcdowell completed the Aoraki - Mt Cook Traverse in New Zealand in just over a day. Also referred to as the Grand Traverse and involving 55km, 4,500m+ elevation gain across rock, snow, and ice, this has been described as 'the...
Probable first ski descent on Piz de Puez, Dolomites
Probable first ski descent on Piz de Puez, Dolomites
On 25/03/2024 Franz Anstein, Federico Maremonti and Andreas Tonelli skied what is likely to be a new line on Piz de Puez in the Dolomites, Italy. Called 'Canal sëura l uët', this couloir provides difficulties in the region of 5.1 E4, as Anstein explains in his report.
Piz Güglia NW Couloir established solo by Roger Schäli
10/04/2024 - Alpinism
Piz Güglia NW Couloir established solo by Roger Schäli
On 20/03/2024 Swiss mountaineer Roger Schäli made the first ascent of 'Nordwestwand Couloir' (WI5+, M5+, 600m) on Piz Güglia (3380m) in Switzerland's Engadin region.
Emily Harrop, Rémi Bonnet win Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Individual
08/04/2024 - Competitions
Emily Harrop, Rémi Bonnet win Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Individual
The last stage of the 2024 Individual World Cup took place in Cortina, Italy, on Sunday and was won by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret from France and Remi Bonnet from Swtizerland. The overall season title was won by Bonnet and Emily Harrop from France.
Sarah Dreier and Remi Bonnet win Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 Vertical
06/04/2024 - Competitions
Sarah Dreier and Remi Bonnet win Ski Mountaineering World Cup 2024 vertical
The last stage of the 2024 vertical World Cup took place in Cortina, Italy, today and was won by Axelle Gachet-Mollaret from France and Remi Bonnet from Swtizerland. The overall season title was won by Bonnet and Sarah Dreier from Austria.
Arma de doble filo added to La Espada (Paine, Patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
15/03/2024 - Alpinism
Arma de doble filo added to La Espada (Paine, Patagonia) by Sebastian Pelletti, Hernan Rodriguez
On 24 and 25 February 2024 Sebastian Pelletti and Hernan Rodriguez made the first ascent of 'Arma de doble filo' (5.11+, A1, 800m) on the East face of La Espada in the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia.
New climb on El Mocho in Patagonia by Nico Lewin, Ignacio Mulero, Leon Riveros
08/03/2024 - Climbing
New climb on El Mocho in Patagonia by Nico Lewin, Ignacio Mulero, Leon Riveros
Ignacio Mulero, Leon Teizan Riveros Molina and Nico Lewin have made the first ascent of 'Arigato Chalten' (7c, 450m) on the north face of El Mocho in the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia.
Cochamó valley, Chile: new big wall on Cerro Trinidad Central by Leo Gheza, Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz
01/03/2024 - Climbing
Cochamó valley, Chile: new big wall on Cerro Trinidad Central by Leo Gheza, Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz
On Cerro Trinidad Central in Valle Cochamó in Chile the Italian climbers Angelo Contessi, Diego Diaz and Leo Gheza have established the big wall 'Nunca say Nunca' (5.12+/A1/1000m). Gheza reports.
New Matterhorn route established by Cazzanelli, Farina, Perruquet, Stradelli
08/02/2024 - Alpinism
New Matterhorn route established by Cazzanelli, Farina, Perruquet, Stradelli
On 06/02/2024 Italian alpinists François Cazzanelli, Jerome Perruquet, Marco Farina and Stefano Stradelli established a new route on the South Face of the Matterhorn (4,478m).

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