Luca Bana frees The Master (9a+/b) at Cornalba

At the historic crag Cornalba in Val Seriana above Bergamo, Luca Bana has freed The Master, a project he bolted in 2023 for which he now suggests a grade of 9a+/b. The route is located on the far right side of the Jedi sector, shares the start of Dito Prensile (8a+), and then, with six bolts placed by Bana, continues straight up to the anchor.

This 20m line is currently the most difficult climb at the Corna Bianca and comes after his repeat of Goldrake (9a+) in 2019 and the first ascent of Extrasistole Galoppante (9a) in 2021. In the past, the 27-year-old has sent two 9a+: the aforementioned Goldrake and Super Crackinette at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France in 2024.

Writing on his Instagram handle, Bana explained "Clear skies and crisp air: conditions look perfect. After a solid first go, I find myself back on the ground, looking up once more. I’m satisfied with matching my high point, but I know it's still not enough if I want to have a chance.

Two full hours of rest, temps are way colder but I'm ready to try again. This time, I climb smoothly through all the hard middle section. Short, sharp shakes — and I launch into the upper crux.

From below, someone shouts "come on, you’ve got it!" — as I stick the hold I’d never reached before. Almost in disbelief, I keep going, aware the route isn't over yet. My forearms are about to give out on the very last moves, but the tiny spark of energy left in me is just enough to grab the top hold and clip the chains — the same ones I placed back in November 2023 when, looking for my next challenge, I bolted the route.

Happiness also comes with a deep sense of release and lightness — the feeling of closing an intense vertical chapter lasted two seasons. A journey with ups and downs: from doubts to trust and then back to uncertainty, refining betas, falling with numb fingertips in the freezing wind, facing tough conditions and struggling to find the right day.

A rollercoaster of moments driven by the desire to raise the bar, reach a new personal milestone and humbly aim for something greater. Leaving a mark in a place as magical as Cornalba means a lot to me, and sharing it with special people makes it even more meaningful.

For sure, it's my most difficult ascent to date — 9a+ hard is what it felt like to me, hence the slash grade. But let's see what others will say! Sooner or later I'll be back for the longer and slightly harder version starting from Goldrake.

Thank you, The Master, for the lessons that helped me grow, both as a climber and as a person. And thank you to everyone who believed in me and shared this beautiful journey along the way."