Il Tempo Sospeso added to Furcia Rossa III in the Dolomites

Earlier this summer Luca Ducoli and Leo Gheza made the first ascent of 'Il Tempo Sospeso' on the south face of Furcia Rossa III in the Fanis Dolomites. Gheza reports.
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Luca Ducoli and Leo Gheza establishing 'Il Tempo Sospeso' on Furcia Rossa III, Fanis Dolomites, August 2025
Enrico Polo

A little-known place that deserves more attention, it's rare to find such a vast south face with only two routes on it, moreover established only recently, by Hubert Eisendle and Simon Kehrer between 2018 and 2022. The rock is truly incredible, on a par with the other more famous walls of the Dolomites.

During the first ascent of Il Tempo Sospeso - Suspended Time - Luca Ducoli and I used cams and 6 pegs to protect the pitches, while the belays were bolted. All the other pegs and threads we added later to make the route finding easier for those wishing to repeat it.

The style of the first ascent was intriguing and ethical, climbing while searching for every small imperfection in the rock, hoping that it might offer protection possibilities.

Il tempo sospeso refers to those moments on the wall when you detach from everything - work, commitments, etc. - and you enter another dimension that envelops you until the end, until your feet touch the ground again.

Thanks to Arianna Tricomi who went to scout the wall and helped us during the first two days of the first ascent. Thanks also to the kind hut wardeens of Malga Gran Fanes and to Lappas Bolting for the bolts.

- Leo Gheza, Esine, Val Camonica

Sponsors: Metalcam - Salewa - La Sportiva - EvilEyes - Lappas Climbing - Singing Rock - Verona Verticale

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