174 News found
08/01/2022 - Climbing
Watch Beat Kammerlander climbing WoGü in the Rätikon, Switzerland The film about Austrian climber Beat Kammerlander making the first ascent of WoGü, the difficult multi-pitch route he established in 1998 in the Rätikon massif in Switzerland, dedicated to Wolfgang Güllich.
07/12/2021 - Climbing
Siebe Vanhee repeats Parthian Shot and other UK gritstone trad extremes During a climbing trip to the UK, Belgium’s Siebe Vanhee repeated a flurry of hard gritstone trad climbs including Parthian Shot E9, End of the Affair E8 and Gaia E8.
09/06/2021 - Climbing
Five must see crags at Arco, the birthplace of sport climbing as we know it Massone, Nago, Belvedere, Spiaggia delle Lucertole and Calvario: five crags you must visit to savour the best sport climbing around Arco and Lake Garda. This is the first article in a series made with Vibram, to celebrate climbing yesterday, today and tomorrow as part of its 'Learn to Climb with...
24/02/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Messner, Martin Sieberer establish Eremit in Stubaital In Pinnistal, a small side valley of the Stubaital in Austria, Simon Messner and Martin Sieberer have established Eremit, a difficult mixed climb protected with trad gear and pegs. Messner reports.
14/01/2021 - Alpinism
K2 in winter without supplementary oxygen - possible or impossible? German journalist Stefan Nestler examines the physiological difficulties associated with climbing K2 in winter without supplemental oxygen. Originally published on his website, Nestler has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
24/09/2020 - Climbing
Alessandro Zeni claims Cani Morti Plus, 8c Dolomites multipitch In combining the first two pitches of Cani Morti, the difficult multi-pitch first ascended in 2003 by Maurizio Zanolla Manolo and Riccardo Scarian on Campanile Basso di Lastei in the Pale di San Martino group, this summer Alessandro Zeni created Cani Morti Plus. Graded 8c, this is now one of...
05/08/2020 - Climbing
Video: Adam Ondra and the intricate climbing ethics of Czech sandstone The video on Adam Ondra explaining, with Petr Slanina, how a new climb is first ascended on the sandstone towers in the Czech Republic. With archive footage of the first 9a established ground-up by Ondra at Labak in 2012.
22/05/2020 - Climbing
Petr Slanina and the traditional climbing on Czech Republic
's sandstone towers The fascinating portrait of Petr Slanina, the Czech rock climber better known as Špek, and the complicated game of traditional climbing on the sandstone towers of the Czech Republic.
31/03/2020 - Interviews
Eline & Marc Le Menestrel: Chouca and Buoux, yesterday, today and tomorrow Chouca at Buoux is one of those routes that has marked the history of sport climbing. First ascended in 1985 by Marc Le Menestrel, it was recently repeated by his daughter Eline Le Menestrel. This was an excellent pretext to find out more about this legendary climb and why...
19/03/2020 - Alpinism
Luka Lindič & Luka Krajnc add new route to Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia Interview with Slovenian alpinists Luka Lindič and Luka Krajnc after their first ascent of Mir, a new climb up Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia.
06/02/2020 - Alpinism
Cochamó valley in Chile: Vlad Capusan, Teofil Vlad soar up El ultimo Vuelo del Condor In Valle Cochamo in Chile Romanian mountaineers Vlad Capusan and Teofil Vlad have made the first ascent of El ultimo Vuelo del Condor. The new multi-pitch rock climb is dedicated to Zsolt Torok who perished in August 2019.
26/01/2020 - Climbing
The Sand Rules, traditional climbing on the sandstone towers in the Czech Republic The documentary The Sand Rules by Fabrizio Zampetti and Andrea Rizzi featuring the fascinating rock climbing on the sandstone towers in the Czech Republic and Saxon Switzerland in eastern Germany.
16/01/2020 - Alpinism
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.
05/11/2019 - Alpinism
Tobias Engl, Florian Huber establish Dolasilla up Lavarella in the Dolomites The topo of Dolasilla (VIII-, 300m) established by Tobias Engl and Florian Huber up Piz Lavarella (Conturines - Lavarella) in the Dolomites. According to the first ascentionists this is likely to be the first route up the mountain’s west face.
09/10/2019 - Alpinism
Koyo Zom West Face first ascent by Tom Livingstone and Ally Swinton British mountaineers Tom Livingstone and Ally Swinton have climbed the virgin west face of Koyo Zom (6877m), the highest mountain in the Hindu Raj range in Pakistan. The two were part of a greater expedition including John Crook, Uisdean Hawthorn and Will Sim.
18/09/2019 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher: Silbergeier, Headless Children and Zeit zum Atmen Summer climbing in the mountains resulted in three hard multipitches for Jacopo Larcher and Barbara Zangerl: Silbergeier and Headless Children in the Rätikon in Switzerland and Zeit zum Atmen up Rote Wand in Austria.
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