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Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
01/06/2022 - Alpinism
Marek Raganowicz completes 35-day big wall solo first ascent on Baffin Island’s Polar Sun Arm
From 17 April to 21 May 2022 Polish mountaineer Marek Raganowicz climbed a new route solo on Polar Sun Arm, the huge buttress that guards Polar Sun Spire on Baffin Island in Canada. MikroKozmik Variations was climbed over 35 days past difficulties up to VII, A4+, M5 and, after...
Der Name der Rose climbed in Val Lasties, Dolomites
01/03/2022 - Alpinism
Der Name der Rose climbed in Val Lasties, Dolomites
The report by Johannes Egger who with Simon Furggler, Alex Unterkalmsteiner and Manuel Luterotti established Der Name der Rose, a new mixed climb in Val Lasties, Dolomites, close to his famous Solo per un altro Hashtag.
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
08/10/2021 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention
The 2021 Piolets d'Or awards for alpinism will be awarded in November at Briançon, France, to Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer for their ascent of Sani Pakkush and Ethan Berman and Uisdean Hawthorn for their ascent of Mount Robson. Catalan climber Silvia Vidal has received a special mention.
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
20/05/2021 - Alpinism
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
Czech alpinists Zdeněk Hák and Jaroslava Bánský have successfully completed the first traverse of Kangchung Shar (6030m) in Nepal. They climbed the north face of the mountain into the saddle between Kangchung Shar and Cholo, then followed the NW ridge to the top, returned to the saddle and descended the...
La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
06/05/2021 - Climbing
La Severina, the dream crag at Palinuro in Italy
Rolando Larcher introduces the splendid crag La Severina close to Palinuro in Campania, Italy. A '40m high overhanging forest of stalactites' developed between 2019 and 2020 that currently boasts 20 routes between 6b and 8c.
Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
06/04/2021 - Alpinism
Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
The report by Belgian alpinist Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll who this season has established two new rock climbs on the north face of El Mocho in the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia: Chalten Sin Clecas (Chalten without tickmarks) with Mecha Rocamora and Chalten sin Chapas” (Chalten without bolts) with Matías Korten.
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
20/01/2021 - Alpinism
Farewell to Cesare Maestri
Cesare Maestri passed away yesterday aged 91. The highly talented Italian alpinist, mountain guide and author was nicknamed il Ragno delle Dolomiti, the Spider of the Dolomites. His name will always be intrinsically linked not only to his beloved home mountains, but also to Cerro Torre in Patagonia.
Brenta Dolomites: Frizzi & Lazzi rock climb on Torrione di Vallesinella
04/11/2020 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites: Frizzi & Lazzi rock climb on Torrione di Vallesinella
In summer 2019 Italian mountain guide Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi and Martina Paolazzi made the first ascent of the multi-pitch climb Frizzi & Lazzi on Torrione di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites.
Petition against oil drilling close to Fontainebleau
16/10/2020 - Environment
Petition against oil drilling close to Fontainebleau
A petition has been launched by Environnement Bocage Gâtinais (EBG) against an Oil Drilling project just 4 km from the Fontainebleau forest, famous for being the world's bouldering mecca. On the 19th of October EBG will present the petition to the commissioner.
Video: Adam Ondra climbing Atene Naturale at Massone, Arco
15/10/2020 - Climbing
Video: Adam Ondra climbing Atene Naturale at Massone, Arco
The climbing video of Adam Ondra making the first free ascent of Atene Naturale 9a at Massone in Arco, Italy.
Jernej Kruder frees Ellipsis on Bila Pec at Sella Nevea, Italy
07/09/2020 - Climbing
Jernej Kruder frees Ellipsis on Bila Pec at Sella Nevea, Italy
Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder has made the first free ascent of Ellipsis, a five-pitch climb with difficulties up to 8b+ on Mt. Bila Pec at Sella Nevea in the Julian Alps, Italy.
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
 of significant ascents
08/07/2020 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2020: the big list
 of significant ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2019. From this they will select the recipients of the Piolets d'Or award that will be celebrated during the Ladek Mountain Festival in Poland, from 11 to 22...
Nido di rondine at Scoglio di Boazzo in Valle di Daone, Italy
26/06/2020 - Alpinism
Nido di rondine at Scoglio di Boazzo in Valle di Daone, Italy
Francesco Salvaterra introduces the rock climb Nido di rondine, a 'forgotten gem' on Scoglio di Boazzo in Val Daone established in 1985 by Gianni Berta, G.P. Foti and Ermanno Salvaterra.
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
10/06/2020 - Alpinism
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites
On Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper in the Zoldo Dolomites, Daniele Geremia, Santiago Padrós and Fulvio Trentini have made the first ascent of Multicolor (280m, 7a+)
Stefano Ghisolfi concludes his Beginning 9a/+ at Arco
24/05/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi concludes his Beginning 9a/+ at Arco
At the crag Eremo di San Paolo close to Arco, Italy, Stefano Ghisolfi has made the first ascent of Beginning 9a/+.