873 News found

A sample of carabiners and quickdraws have been tested and analised by Emanuele Pellizzari at the Italian Mountaineering Club Gear and Techniques laboratory at Taggì di Sopra, Villafranca Padovana, Padova, Italy.

On 8 and 9 December 2012 three new routes were established up the North Face of Piz Spallone Pizzo del Becco (Orobie, Alta Val Brembana, BG); Fò di B.A.L (250m, III - WI 2 - M5), Beccati questa Goulotte (250m, II - WI 2 - M4) and Bo (250m, II...

On 20/11/2012 British alpinists Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey made the first ascent of Eyes Wide Shut (900m, ED1, M6, AO, UIAA IV+) up the NE Face of Mont Rouge di Greuvetta (Mont Blanc massif).

On 23/11/2012 Vivian Bruchez and Kilian Jornet Burgada made the first ski descent of the Migot Spur located on Aiguille de Chardonnet in the Mont Blanc massif.

On the North Face of Croz del Rifugio (Brenta Dolomites) Italian Mountain Guide Franco Nicolini has put up two new routes and reequipped the belays of his Via Elena (1988) as well as Via Bregtie, first climbed in 1963 by Cesare Maestri and Ernesto Carafoli.

On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).

Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...

In October 2012 Ukrainian alpinists Serhiy Bublik and Mykola Shymko succeeded in the first ascent of Simnang Himal (also referred to as peak P2), the 6251m high mountain located in the Manaslu region of the Himalaya.

This summer a successful Swiss expedition comprised of Jacksch, Ledergerber, Schüpbach and Reist established four long new routes in Renland, Greenland.

Two new rock climbs up the fascinating Cima Cason de Formin in the Dolomites: Buon compleanno Nat (6c+, 215m Massimo Da Pozzo, Marco Alberti, Danilo Serafini) and La beffa (7a+/7b Massimo Da Pozzo, Pier Francesco Smaltini).

Last August Giovannino Massari and Paolo Seimandi re-equipped L'orologio senza tempo, the historic rock climb established in 1982 by Massari and Andrea Parodi up the East Face of Punta Figari (Gruppo Castello - Provenzale). The report by Paolo Seimandi.

Last summer Maurizio Giordani, Luciano Ferrari and Nancy Paoletto made the first ascent of Via dei 6 Pilastri (940m, 6b+) up the South Face of Piz dell'Anticima Serauta (Marmolada, Dolomites)

Interview with British climber Neil Gresham after his first ascent of the Deep Water Solo Olympiad 8b at Pembroke, Wales.

On 18 September Spanish ski mountaineer and sky runner Kilian Jornet Burgada ascended from Courmayeur to the summit of Mont Blanc via the famous Innominata Ridge (1000m, D+, V+, 60º) in 6 hours and 17 minutes. The Spaniard then raced down to Chamonix in a total time of 8 hours...

This summer Tomas Brt (Czech Republic), Vlado Linek and Jan Smolen (Slovakia) visited Greenland’s Tasermiut Fjord where they established two new routes, Turbo (VIII+, A2,1450m) on the South Face of Ketil and Keep Panic, Please (VIII, 1270m)  up the NW Face of  the N summit of Ulamertorsuaq.

American alpinists Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster have made the third ascent of Ogre (Baintha Brakk) 7,285m in Karakorum via a new route up the South Face.