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Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
04/07/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, solo, fast and light on the Infinite Spur in Alaska
American alpinist Colin Haley shares his thoughts about his recent fast solo ascent of the Infinite Spur on Sultana - Mt. Foraker in Alaska. Originally posted only on facebook, Haley has kindly allowed his text to be republished on planetmountain.com.
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
29/06/2016 - Alpinism
Torre del Formenton, new rock climb at Passo di San Pellegrino, Dolomites
Marco Bozzetta introduces Occhi d’acqua (7b, 210m), a new multi-pitch rock climb established ground-up in September 2015 together with Costante Carpella up the south face of Torre del Formenton, Val Fredda, Dolomiti. Dolomites.
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
17/06/2016 - Climbing
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher together with a series of different climbing partners has made the first ascent of Horror Vacui (8b+ max, 7b+ obl.) a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Scoglio dei Ciclopi face on Monte Cimo (Val d'Adige, Italy). As the name suggests, the line is a huge outing through...
Barbara Zangerl repeats Achemine at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland's first E9
08/05/2016 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl repeats Achemine at Dumbarton Rock, Scotland's first E9
Austrian rock climber Barbara Zangerl has repeated Achemine, the E9 trad climb at Dumbarton Rock established by Dave MacLeod in 2001 and famous for being Scotland’s first E9.
Manolo and Bellissima... six hours to bolt it, six minutes to free it
29/04/2016 - Climbing
Manolo and Bellissima... six hours to bolt it, six minutes to free it
Manolo talks about the 35m sports climb he bolted and freed on the SW Face of Picco delle Aquile, Monte Coppolo, Valnuvola, Italy. The route is called Bellissimo… gorgeous, and perhaps there’s a reason why.
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
The report by Marco Bozzetta who, together with Francesco Salvaterra, made the first ascent of Pace in Siria (7a+, 6c+ obligatory, 230m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the SE Face of Dain di Pietramurata, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
18/04/2016 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
From 17 - 19 March 2016 German climber Fabian Buhl made a solo ascent of Wetterbock, a 10-pitch 8c freed in 2014 by Alexander Huber up the Wetterbockwand, Göll East Face, Berchtesgaden Alps, Austria.
Tour du Rutor 2016: Michele Boscacci - Matteo Eydallin and Laetitia Roux - Axelle Mollaret win 18th edition
Tour du Rutor 2016: Michele Boscacci - Matteo Eydallin and Laetitia Roux - Axelle Mollaret win 18th edition
After three difficult stages, on Sunday 3 April 2016 the 18th Tour du Rutor was won by the Italians Michele Boscacci - Matteo Eydallin and by the Frenchwomen Laetitia Roux - Axelle Mollaret.
Adam Ondra becomes Garda Trentino ambassador
10/03/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra becomes Garda Trentino ambassador
Adam Ondra from the Czech Republich to endorse the Garda Trentino region in Northern Italy. At the start of April the champion climber will take part in a European tour to Zurich, Stuttgart, Frankfurt and Munich.
Tris Rotondo, a stormy ski mountaineering success
01/03/2016 - Competitions
Tris Rotondo, a stormy ski mountaineering success
On Sunday 28 February 2016 the 7th biennial ski mountaineering competition Tris Rotondo took place in Switzerland’s Canton Ticino, Switzerland. The men’s Super Tris competition was won by Filippo Barazzuol & Maguet Nadir while Jennifer Fiechter & Lorna Bonnel won the women's event.
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
25/02/2016 - Climbing
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of "El lobo del desierto", a new rock climb up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos, the massive towers above Monterrey in Mexico. Established over 5 days and freed by the Italians, the route is 12...
Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl breakthrough with Interstellar Spice at Helmcken Falls
08/02/2016 - Alpinism
Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl breakthrough with Interstellar Spice at Helmcken Falls
At the Helmcken Falls in Canada Tim Emmett and Klemen Premrl have made the first ascent of Interstellar Spice, a new ice climb they describe as setting "a new level of difficulty for any route of this style."
Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
01/02/2016 - Climbing
Valle dell'Orco, Rolando Larcher climbs new granite on Torre di Aimonin
Rolando Larcher recounts the beauty of trad climbing in Italy's Valle dell'Orco: the video (by Riky Felderer) and the report of two new rock climbs on Torre di Aimonin: "Cani & Gatti" (8a+), first ascended with a mix of trad and bolts by M. Oviglia and P. Seimandi and freed...
Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report
27/01/2016 - Events
Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report
The report about the 26th edition of Ice Climbing Ecrins, the festival that took place from 14 - 17 January at l’Argentière-La Bessée, France.
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
11/01/2016 - Alpinism
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
Florian Riegler reports about his ascent of Trinitas (WI4, M5, 1000m), a probable new route up the NW Face of Ortler climbed on 27/12/2015 together with his brother Martin Riegler. With this ascent the two South Tyrolean alpinists have completed the trilogy of new routes that includes the summits of...
Janja Garnbret wins the La Sportiva Legends Only 2015
30/11/2015 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret wins the la sportiva Legends Only 2015
The la sportiva Legends Only 2015 bouldering competition was won on Saturday 28/11/2015 at Stockholm in Sweden by Janja Garnbret, ahead of Shauna Coxsey, Melissa Le Neve, Juliane Wurm and Anna Stöhr.