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The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
16/10/2010 - Climbing
Adam Ondra is Tough Enough on Tsaranoro in Madagascar
Adam Ondra has carried out the first free ascent in a single day of Tough Enough (8c, 380m) on the East Face of Karambony in Tsaranoro Valley, Madagascar. He concluded his trip by repeating Bravo les Filles (8b, 600m) and making the first free ascent of Mora Mora (8c, 700m).
Simone Pedeferri and the first free ascent of Non sei più della mia banda
05/10/2010 - Climbing
Simone Pedeferri and the first free ascent of Non sei più della mia banda
Between the 2nd and 3rd of September 2010 the Italian climber Simone Pedeferri carried out the first free ascent of "Non sei più della mia banda" (700m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obbl.), the route first ascended by Stefano "Pizza" Pizzagalli, Domenico Soldarini, Stefano Gaffuri and Cesare Romano on the emblematic Precipizio...
European Championship 2010, the results
21/09/2010 - Competitions
European Championship 2010, the results
The sport climbing European Championships were held in Austria's Imst-Innsbruck last weekend. Ramón Julian Puigblanque and Angela Eiter won the Lead competition, Cedric Lachat and Anna Stöhr the Bouldering event, while Sergey Abdrakhmanov and Edyta Ropek won Speed.
Christian Stangl confesses: his K2 summit fruit of the imagination
08/09/2010 - Alpinism
Christian Stangl confesses: his K2 summit fruit of the imagination
Christian Stangl, the Austrian alpinist who had claimed the only K2 ascent in this pre-monsoon season, admitted yesterday to not having reached the summit, as had been contested by a part of the mountaineering community.
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
19/07/2010 - Competitions
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
Puigblanque (ESP) and Kim (KOR) won the 25th Rock Master Lead in Arco. Lachat (SUI) and Stöhr (AUT) were victorious in the Bouldering competition, while the Speed gold medal went to Hroza (CZE) and He (CHN) and Team Spedwas won by China. The Lead Duel was won by Ondra (CZE)...
Arco Rock Legends 2010 to Manolo, Ondra & Noguchi
18/07/2010 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2010 to Manolo, Ondra & Noguchi
On Saturday 18/07/2010 the V Arco Rock Legends was celebrated in the Arco Climbing Stadium. Adam Ondra received the Salewa Rock Award while Akiyo Noguchi won the La Sportiva Competition Award. Maurizio Manolo Zanolla received the Sector Climbing Award, a new prize created by the Rock Master association.
Solo per vecchi guerrieri by Iker and Eneko Pou
01/07/2010 - Climbing
Solo per vecchi guerrieri by Iker and Eneko Pou
Iker Pou has carried out the fifth ascent of Solo per vecchi guerrieri, the beautiful and difficult route first ascended by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla on the N Face of "El Colaz" in the Vette Feltrine (Dolomites).
Bouldering World Cup 2010, Anna Stöhr and Dmitry Sharafutdinov win in Eindhoven
28/06/2010 - Competitions
Bouldering World Cup 2010, Anna Stöhr and Dmitry Sharafutdinov win in Eindhoven
The fifth stage of the Bouldering World Cup took place in Eindhoven (NED) last weekend and was won by Anna Stöhr (AUT) and Dmitry Sharafutdinov (RUS).
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
04/06/2010 - Alpinism
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
On 22 May 2010 Sergio De Leo, Michel Coranotte, Marcello Sanguineti and Marco Appino carried out the first ascent of "Plein Sud" (900m, VI, WI4+/5R, M6+), a new route up the incredible wild South Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
Bouldering World Cup 2010, Fischhuber and Johnson win in Greifensee
17/05/2010 - Competitions
Bouldering World Cup 2010, Fischhuber and Johnson win in Greifensee
On 15/05/2010 the first of the seven stage Bouldering World Cup 2010 was won in Greifensee (Switzerland) by Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) and Alex Johnson (USA). Adam Ondra (CZE) and Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) placed second, while Christian Core (ITA) and Chloé Graftiaux (BEL) finished third.
Melloblocco 2010
12/05/2010 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2010
Melloblocco 2010 turned out to be a success once again. Despite the bad weather 1900 registered climbers took part in the world's largest bouldering meeting in Val di Mello, Italy from 6 - 9 May 2010. The valley was visited by a circa 3500 boulderers, as can be read in...
Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
14/04/2010 - Climbing
Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
Angelika Rainer and her repeat of Outsider at Cornalba.
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
12/04/2010 - Events
Piolet d'Or, the winners and alpinism of the future
The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
23/02/2010 - Competitions
Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has ratified and recognised the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) during its Plenary Session at Vancouver, Canada. As the President of the IFSC Marco Scolaris explains, this is a fundamental step for sport climbing in its bid to become an Olympic sport.
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
11/02/2010 - Alpinism
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
Almost unreal winter conditions in the Slovenian Alps have resulted in a flurry of interesting ascents. Slovenian alpinist Andrej Grmovšek provides the report.