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China climbing action by Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand
29/11/2010 - Alpinism
China climbing action by Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand
Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand have carried out a series of stunning climbs in the Minya Konka range in western China.
Menhir on Sass dla Crusc, new route by Tondini and Irsara
02/11/2010 - Alpinism
Menhir on Sass dla Crusc, new route by Tondini and Irsara
On 03/09/2010 Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara carried out the first free ascent of Menhir (200m, IX- (7b+), R3, III; EX). The two had established the route between 10 - 26 July 2010 up the Pilastro di Mezzo on the West Face of the Sass dla Crusc (Fanis, Dolomites, Italy).
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
14/10/2010 - Alpinism
AlexAnna, Punta Penia, Marmolada: first free ascent by Rolando Larcher
On 14/07/2010 Rolando Larcher and climbing partner Tiziano Buccella carried out the first free ascent of AlexAnna (740m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obl.), up the Pilastro Lindo on the SW Face of Punta Penia on the Marmolada, Dolomites. Larcher had established the line with various partners over 6 days during 2007...
Maurizio, Manolo, Mago
06/10/2010 - Climbing
Maurizio, Manolo, Mago
Eternit, the slab. Andrea Gallo and a day's climbing with Maurizio Manolo Zanolla at Baule (Dolomites, Italy)
Miss Oh Eun-Sun, doubts and certainties surrounding her 14x8000ers
01/09/2010 - Alpinism
Miss Oh Eun-Sun, doubts and certainties surrounding her 14x8000ers
A commission called upon by the Korean Alpine Federation has declared Miss Oh Eun-Sun's Kangchenjunga ascent as improbable, thus raising doubts as to whether the Korean was the first woman to have climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks.
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
19/07/2010 - Competitions
Rock Master 2010 - all the competitions in the run up to the Climbing World Championship 2011
Puigblanque (ESP) and Kim (KOR) won the 25th Rock Master Lead in Arco. Lachat (SUI) and Stöhr (AUT) were victorious in the Bouldering competition, while the Speed gold medal went to Hroza (CZE) and He (CHN) and Team Spedwas won by China. The Lead Duel was won by Ondra (CZE)...
Nalle Hukkataival hard boulders in Norway
08/07/2010 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival hard boulders in Norway
Nalle Hukkataival from Finland has established two FB8B and flashed two Fb8A+ in Norway.
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
On 04/06/2010 Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli skied the North Face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) via the Grivel - Chabod route. The first and only ski descent was carried out in 1980 by Stefano De Benedetti.
Rock Junior, the first day of the European climbing festival
05/06/2010 - Events
Rock Junior, the first day of the European climbing festival
The first day of the Arco Rock Junior was marked by sun and climbing. More than 400 climbers took part in the Under 14 Cup and the Climbing Campus. This year's exceptional testimonial was star climber Chris Sharma.
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition which on 24/12/1986 reached the West Summit...
Trento FilmFestival 2010
30/04/2010 - Events
Trento FilmFestival 2010
From 29 April to 9 May the oldest mountain film festival in the world unfolds in Trento, Italy. For the third year runniing Planetmountain directs the unique WebTV.
Red River Gorge, climbing iPhone app
30/04/2010 - Book-press
Red River Gorge, climbing iPhone app
Wolverine Publishing is due to launch the first comprehensive iPhone app for Red River Gorge in Kentucky, USA. Planetmountain took a brief look at this new digital content.
Climbing World Championship 2011 and Rock Master 2010 online
26/04/2010 - Climbing
Climbing World Championship 2011 and Rock Master 2010 online
The official website of the IFSC Climbing World Championship 2011 in Arco is now online. The portal also hosts all the information about the next edition of the classic Rock Master competition which has been brought forward to July 2010 as a World Championship pre-event.
Annapurna summits: Edurne Pasaban climbs 13th 8000er, Joao Garcia his 14th
19/04/2010 - Alpinism
Annapurna summits: Edurne Pasaban climbs 13th 8000er, Joao Garcia his 14th
On 17 April Edurne Pasaban from Spain's Basque country reached the summit of Annapurna, her 13th 8000m peak, while Joao Garcia from Portugal completed the collection of the 14 highest mountains in the world. Asier Izaguirre, Alex Chicón, Nacho Orviz and the Sherpa Mingma, Pasang and Gempu from the Pasaban...
Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
26/03/2010 - Climbing
Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson report directly from El Capitan in Yosemite with updates about their progress on what has become known as the immensely difficult Mescalito Dawn Wall project.