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Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
23/04/2016 - Alpinism
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
After a few nights spent at about 5700m, the Italian alpinists Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have concluded their acclimatization prior to attempting the unclimbed north face of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. Conditions are not ideal conditions and the...
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria
21/04/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism: new climb on Großglockner in Austria
On 05/04/2016 the Austrian alpinists Vittorio Messini and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Südwandwächter (M5, WI4+, 600m), a new mixed climb up the South Face of Grossglockner (3798m) in Austria.
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
19/04/2016 - Book-press
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
A book for dreamers: Savage arena by Joe Tasker. A story about a form of alpinism that has perhaps disappeared but which has certainly left its mark in history. The book review by Ivo Ferrari.
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
18/04/2016 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
From 17 - 19 March 2016 German climber Fabian Buhl made a solo ascent of Wetterbock, a 10-pitch 8c freed in 2014 by Alexander Huber up the Wetterbockwand, Göll East Face, Berchtesgaden Alps, Austria.
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli reach base of unclimbed north face
18/04/2016 - Alpinism
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli reach base of unclimbed north face
Italian mountaineers Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have reached the base of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. In the coming days they will begin their attempts at forging a new route up the unclimbed, 2000m high north face.
Les Courtes Austrian route skied by Boissenot, Roguet, Brunel and Gentet
Les Courtes Austrian route skied by Boissenot, Roguet, Brunel and Gentet
On 10/04/2016 Yannick Boissenot, Stéphane Roguet, Nicolas Brunel and Titi Gentet descended on skis the Austrian route down the north face of Les Courtes (3856m), Mont Blanc massif.
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov...
Aiguille du Moine SE Face, new direct variation skied by Boissenot, Roguet, Gentet and Brunel
Aiguille du Moine SE Face, new direct variation skied by Boissenot, Roguet, Gentet and Brunel
French skiers Yannick Boissenot, Nicolas Brunel, Titi Gentet and Stéphane Roguet skied the SE Face of Aiguille du Moine (Mont Blanc), adding a new direct variation to the famous line established by Jean Marc Boivin in 1987.
Lino D'Angelo farewell
30/03/2016 - Alpinism
Lino D'Angelo farewell
Lino D’Angelo, the man and mountaineer who came to represent Gran Sasso and Pietracamela, died in L'Aquila at the age of 95. An important piece of the history of mountaineering. The obituary by Roberto Iannilli.
Langkofeleck: first ski descent in the Dolomites by Hermann Comploj
Langkofeleck: first ski descent in the Dolomites by Hermann Comploj
On 20/039/2016 Hermann Comploj carried out a new first ski descent in the Dolomites, by skiing a line alone down the SW Face of Langkofeleck, also referred to as Spallone Sassolungo 3081m.
Ueli Steck, Mathieu Maynadier and Jérôme Para in Les Drus North Couloir Direct
28/03/2016 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck, Mathieu Maynadier and Jérôme Para in Les Drus North Couloir Direct
The video of Ueli Steck, Mathieu Maynadier and Jérôme Para repeating the North Couloir Direct alpine climb on Les Drus in the Mont Blanc massif.
Nanga Parbat in winter and the Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger climbing partnership
24/03/2016 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter and the Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger climbing partnership
Simone Moro and Tamara Lunger: how the climbing partnership was formed that, together with Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, paved the way to the historic first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8126m, Karakorum, Pakistan).
Grande Rocheuse Voie Originale, first ski and snowboard descent by Capozzi, Galli, Herry and Trento
Grande Rocheuse Voie Originale, first ski and snowboard descent by Capozzi, Galli, Herry and Trento
Julien Herry reports about the first ski and snowboard descent of the Voie Originale down the South Face of Grande Rocheuse (4102m) in the Mont Blanc massif, carried out together with Davide Capozzi, Lambert Galli and Denis Trento.
Climbing video at Monterrey, Mexico: El Lobo del Deserto by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
10/03/2016 - Climbing
Climbing video at Monterrey, Mexico: El Lobo del Deserto by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
The video of the first ascent of El Lobo del Desierto, a new multi-pitch rock climb established by Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi at the start of January 2016 up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos...
Chad Climbing Expedition 2015
09/03/2016 - Climbing
Chad Climbing Expedition 2015
Alessandro Beber retraces the climbing expedition to the Republic of Chad, carried out toward the end of 2015 together with Stefano Angelini, Fabrizio Dellai, Matteo Faletti, Jiri Leskovjan, Alessandro Lucchi and Piero Ravà.
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
25/02/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: Wojciech Kurtyka to receive Piolet d'Or Carrière and the 'big list' of elite alpinism
52 climbs carried out in 2015 have been included in the "Big list" of the Piolets d'Or, the prestigious mountaineering award that will be celebrated between 14 - 17 April 2016 at La Grave - La Meije in France. During...

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