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Adam Ondra, Britain's first 8c on-sight and 9a+ repeat
18/05/2011 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, Britain's first 8c on-sight and 9a+ repeat
During a quick visit to Britain Adam Ondra made the first repeats of two Steve McClure testpieces: Overshadow 9a+ and Rainshadow 9a at Malham Cove. At the same crag the Czech climber also carried out the first on-sight of an 8c in Britain, Bat Route.
Luka Zazvonil prepares Table For Six at Kotecnik in Slovenia
18/05/2011 - Climbing
Luka Zazvonil prepares Table For Six at Kotecnik in Slovenia
Slovenian climber Luka Zazvonil has made the first ascent of Miza za šest or Table for Six 8c+/9a at Kotecnik in Slovenia. Urban Golob provides the report.
James Pearson repeats Quello che non c’è at Sasso Remenno
11/05/2011 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Quello che non c’è at Sasso Remenno
On 9 May 2011, imediately after Melloblocco, James Pearson carried out the first repeat of "Quello che non c’è" 8c+ on Sasso Remenno in Val Masino, Italy.
Gabriele Moroni and Nicolo Ceria, two videos in Switzerland
03/05/2011 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni and Nicolo Ceria, two videos in Switzerland
Video of Gabriele Moroni on Coup de grace 9a and Nicolò Ceria on Never Ending Story 8B+.
Jakob Schubert and Gabriele Moroni unleashed
28/04/2011 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert and Gabriele Moroni unleashed
Jakob Schubert from Austria has repeated Chris Sharma's Papichulo 9a+ at Oliana and on-sighted Aitzol 8c at Margalef. Gabriele Moroni has carried out the first repeat of Coup de Grace 9a by Dave Graham in the Canton Ticino, Switzerland.
Adam Ondra, 9b incredible fight and fun
26/04/2011 - Climbing
Adam Ondra, 9b incredible fight and fun
Last Friday at Villanueva del Rosario, Spain, Adam Ondra made the first ascent of La planta de shiva 9b. A day later at Achidona he climbed three 8c's in a single day.
Adam Ondra, interview after La Capella 9b at Siurana
07/03/2011 - Interviews
Adam Ondra, interview after La Capella 9b at Siurana
Interview with Adam Ondra after his first ascent of La Capella at Siurana, Spain, which the 18-year-old from the Czech Republic has tentatively graded 9b
Papillon, 1st repeat of the great icefall at Brissogne, Valle d'Aosta
01/03/2011 - Alpinism
Papillon, 1st repeat of the great icefall at Brissogne, Valle d'Aosta
On 01/02/2011 Marco Farina, Remy Maquignaz and Thomas Scalise Meynet carried out the first repeat of Papillon (250m IV, 4, M6, 5°) a great modern mixed journey first ascended in 2003 in Valle d'Aosta above Brissogne by Alex Busca, Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina.
Scottish winter climbing, hard repeats and first ascents
10/02/2011 - Alpinism
Scottish winter climbing, hard repeats and first ascents
A series of hard repeats and first ascents on Ben Nevis, Coire an t-Sneachda and Lochnagar, including the second ascent of The Hurting (XI,11 Dave MacLeod, 2005) by Andy Turner.
New ice climbs in Austria's Floitental by Leichtfried, Purner & Co
08/02/2011 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Austria's Floitental by Leichtfried, Purner & Co
Two new icefalls in the Floitental (Zillertal), Austria: Excalibur (WI6/R, 120m, Albert Leichtfried & Paul Mair 30/01/2011) and Quasimodo (M7 WI7, 90m, Benedikt Purner & Klaus Pietersteiner 03/02/2011).
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
07/02/2011 - Alpinism
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
07/02/2011 - Alpinism
Ines Papert in Scotland, new Ben Nevis and Cairngorms winter climbs
During a week winter climbing in Scotland, Ines Papert and Charly Fritzer have established Triple X, VIII,8 on Ben Nevis and Bavarinthia IX, 9 at Coire an Lochain in the Cairngorms.
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
01/01/2011 - Climbing
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat. Roth believes the route to be a good 8c+... The...
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
21/12/2010 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
17/12/2010 - Alpinism
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.
Carletto Alverà, good bye to another flag bearer of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
24/11/2010 - Alpinism
Carletto Alverà, good bye to another flag bearer of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
Yesterday morning Carletto Alverà Lete passed away at the age of 92. The Italian was the flag bearer of the Gruppo Scoiattoli di Cortina, a mountain guide and ski instructor. He takes with him another piece of the history of alpinism in Cortina and the Valle d'Ampezzo, Dolomites.

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