1156 News found

Interview with Italian climber Silvio Reffo who recently repeated two of Sardinia’s most difficult multi-pitch sport climbs: Hotel Supramonte at Gola di Gorropu and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco at Punta Giradili. Climbing onsight, on both routes Reffo fell just once and freed the pitches on his second attempt.

Separate Reality climbed free solo by Wolfgang Güllich and Heinz Zak, Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco by Didier Berthod and Fred Moix. Maurizio Oviglia takes a closer look at the link between photographers and the climbs they have photographed.

Interview with Czech rock climber Adam Ondra who, leading all pitches from 14 to 21 November 2016, completed the second free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite. Considered the hardest big wall in the world, this climb was freed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson between 2014 and...

Interview with Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven after the second free ascent of Dihedral Wall, the difficult big wall climb freed in 2004 by Tommy Caldwell on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.

From 5 to 20 October 2016 Marek Raganowicz made what is believed to be only the second solo ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster, the A5 aid climb put up in 1991 by Eric Kohl on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.

On the Quarto Torrione di Mondeval, Lastoni of Formin group, Dolomites, Francesco Leardi and Valerio Ranzato have made the first ascent of 'L'uomo volante'. The new rock climb is dedicated to Dario Zanon, an Italian BASE Jumper who died in June 2016 during a jump in the Mont Blanc massif.

On the 'most beautiful and famous big wall in Corsica', i.e. Punta U Corbu at Col de Bavella, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia have completed their 'Ro-Ma Project’ to create the new multi-pitch rock climb Ro.Ma. (180m, 7c max, 7a+ obl). Oviglia provides the details.

Alpinists Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.

Interview with Slovenian alpinists Aleš Česen and Luka Lindič after their ascents of Broad Peak (8047m) and Gasherbrum IV North Summit (7900m).

Italian climber Silvio Reffo reports about the first one day free ascent, carried out on 16/10/2016, of Horror Vacui (8b+, 180m), the multi-pitch sports climb established by Rolando Larcher in spring 2015 at the Scoglio dei Ciclopi, Monte Cimo (Val d’Adige).

Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her July 2016 ascent, carried out with Merlin Benoit, of 'Divine Providence' (ED+, 7b+, 900m) up Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc. This is likely to be the first free female ascent of this route established from 5 -8 July 1984 by Patrick Gabarrou and...

On the 4th Kirchlispitze (2494m) in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel have made the first ascent of Prix Garantie (7c, 220m).

Paolo Spreafico reports about 'La lunga attesa', the new rock climb established together with Fabio Palma up the marvellous Wenden limestone in Switzerland.

Manuel Baumgartner reports about PukaNaka (7b+, 325m) a new route he climbed with Martin Baumgartner and Toni Oboles up the SW Face of Sas Tamersc (Fanes, Dolomites).

In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.

Slovenian climber Martina Cufar has redpointed her second 8c sports climb, 'Max power' at Bionnassay, France.