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No Fear, new Russian route on Trango Nameless Tower
16/09/2011 - Alpinism
No Fear, new Russian route on Trango Nameless Tower
In August 2011 a Russian expedition established No Fear (6b+, A3, 1120m) up Nameless Tower, Trango group, Karakorum
Walter Bonatti, thoughts and memories from the world of alpinism
15/09/2011 - Alpinism
Walter Bonatti, thoughts and memories from the world of alpinism
The thoughts for Walter Bonatti which PlanetMountain received from the alpinists...
Le Drus, new rockfall
12/09/2011 - Alpinism
Le Drus, new rockfall
Last Saturday and Sunday several enormous rockfalls fell from the Drus (Mont Blanc).
Junai Kangri, first ascent in the Karakorum by Spanish expedition
07/09/2011 - Alpinism
Junai Kangri, first ascent in the Karakorum by Spanish expedition
On 22 August a Spanish expedition led by Jonas Cruces carried out the first ascent of Junai Kangri (6017m) in India's Karakorum, via their route "Sin permiso (IV, AD +, 750m).
Hervé Barmasse, Iker and Eneko Pou and the new Brouillard route up Mont Blanc
06/08/2011 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Iker and Eneko Pou and the new Brouillard route up Mont Blanc
Interview with Hervé Barmasse, Iker and Eneko Pou after La Classica Moderna' the new route the trio esablished up the Left Pillar of Brouillard on Mont Blanc.
Blede alla riscossa, Piccolo Lagazuoi, Dolomites
20/07/2011 - Climbing
Blede alla riscossa, Piccolo Lagazuoi, Dolomites
The multi-pitch route Blede alla riscossa (5+, 360m), Piccolo Lagazuoi, Dolomites
Russian Latok III success
28/06/2011 - Alpinism
Russian Latok III success
On 25/06/2011 a Russian expedition comprised of Alexander Odintsov, Alexey Lonchinskiy, Ivan Dozhdev and Eugeniy Dmitrienko summited Latok III (6949m) in Pakistan's Karakoram via the hitherto unclimbed west face.
Rockfall on Half Dome in Yosemite
10/06/2011 - Climbing
Rockfall on Half Dome in Yosemite
Video of rockfall off Half Dome, Yosemite, USA, which took place on 27/05/2011 and thankfully injured no one.
Denali, South Face first ski descent and fast Cassin Ridge ascent
08/06/2011 - Alpinism
Denali, South Face first ski descent and fast Cassin Ridge ascent
Swedish skier Andreas Fransson has carried out the first ski descent of the South Face of Denali (6197m), while British alpinists Jonathan Griffith and Will Sim have sped up the Cassin ridge in 14 hours 40 minutes.
Goulotte del Pioda, Gruppo Masino-Disgrazia, Italy
02/06/2011 - Alpinism
Goulotte del Pioda, Gruppo Masino-Disgrazia, Italy
On 19/05/2001 Giacomo Casiraghi and Mario Vannuccini carried out what is likely to be the first ascent of "Goulotte del Pioda" (III/WI2R, 75° 580m) on the remote west face of Monte Pioda 3431m in the Masino-Disgrazia mountain chain, Italy.
Delicatessen, first repeat in Corsica's Bavella after 10 years by Nina Caprez, Cédric Lachat
24/05/2011 - Climbing
Delicatessen, first repeat in Corsica's Bavella after 10 years by Nina Caprez, Cédric Lachat
Cédric Lachat and Nina Caprez have carried out the first and second repeat of Delicatessen at Punta d’u Corbu at Col de la Bavella, Corsica. The 120m high 8b was established by Arnaud Petit and Stéphane Husson in 1992 and freed by Arnaud in 2001.
Mezzalama Trophy 2011. The race, winners and a renewed competition
02/05/2011 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2011. The race, winners and a renewed competition
On 1 May 2011 the XVIII Mezzalama Trophy was won by the international team comprised of Spaniard Jornet Burgada and the Frenchmen Bon Mardion and Blanc. The women's event was won by Pellissier, Pedranzini, Martinelli. The report and excitement of the great ski mountaineering marathon on Monte Rosa, by Lorenzo...
Mezzalama Trophy 2011: the great Monte Rosa ski mountaineering competition postpoined to Sunday
29/04/2011 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2011: the great Monte Rosa ski mountaineering competition postpoined to Sunday
The start of the XVIII "Mezzalama" has been postponed to 05:30 on Sunday 1 May
Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
29/04/2011 - Alpinism
Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
On Thursday 28 April Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Erhard Loretan died in a climbing accident while ascending Grünhorn in the Bernse Alps. Loretan was one of the greatest alpinists of the modern era, the third person to have climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks and the second to do so...
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
19/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
Two Piolets d'Or were awarded on 15 April in Chamonix, France, during the IXX Piolet d'Or 2011: to the Greenland Big Walls by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Bob Shepton and to the ascent up Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama from...
Piolet d'Or 2011: Mount Logan and Greenland Big Walls the winners
16/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011: Mount Logan and Greenland Big Walls the winners
Two prizes awarded last night in Chamonix during the IXX Piolet d'Or: Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama, and the Big Walls in Greenland by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse and Ben Ditto.

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