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In Rätikon Fabian Buhl finally frees demanding Déjà multi-pitch
22/01/2020 - Alpinism
In Rätikon Fabian Buhl finally frees demanding Déjà multi-pitch
In the Rätikon massif in Switzerland German mountaineer Fabian Buhl has completed the first free ascent of Déjà, a 400m multi-pitch alpine rock climb graded 8c+.
Cédric Lachat sends sixth 9a+, Pachamama at Oliana
21/01/2020 - Climbing
Cédric Lachat sends sixth 9a+, Pachamama at Oliana
Swissman Cédric Lachat has repeated Pachamama, the 9a+ established by Chris Sharma in 2009 at Oliana in Spain.
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
16/01/2020 - Alpinism
Rapunzel on Sass de la Crusc, new Dolomites mixed climb by Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner
On Sass de la Crusc / Heiligkreuzkofel in the Dolomites, the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Messner and Manuel Baumgartner have made the first ascent of Rapunzel, a new ice and mixed climb graded WI6+ M7+.
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
14/01/2020 - Alpinism
Pandora on Pordoi, Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messin add huge mixed climb to the Dolomites
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that...
Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayer celebrate Happy New Year ice climb in Dolomites
08/01/2020 - Alpinism
Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayer celebrate Happy New Year ice climb in Dolomites
In Langental (Val Gardena, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Happy New Year, a two-pitch mixed route graded M6+.
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
03/01/2020 - Alpinism
Valnontey - Cogne ice climbing ban to protect Bearded Vulture
A temporary ice climbing ban has been enacted in Valnontey (Cogne, Italy) to protect nesting bearded vulture. The Gran Paradiso National Park commission and the Cogne mountain guides have produced a Decalogue aimed at protecting the local wildlife.
Searching for the most famous Christmas Tree in China
02/01/2020 - Alpinism
Searching for the most famous Christmas Tree in China
The short film Searching for Christmas Tree that documents the search for, and the first ascent of, the mysterious Merry Christmas icefall in China.
Angelika Rainer settles the score, sends Ironman at Eptingen
31/12/2019 - Alpinism
Angelika Rainer settles the score, sends Ironman at Eptingen
South Tyrolean climber Angelika Rainer has repeated Ironman, the total dry tooling route at Eptingen in Switzerland.
Simon Messner seeks unclimbed ice in Sarntal Alps and Dolomites
27/12/2019 - Alpinism
Simon Messner seeks unclimbed ice in Sarntal Alps and Dolomites
Simon Messner has recently climbed two new mixed routes: the first at the Sarner Scharte in the Sarntal valley (Sarntal Alps) with Kurt Brugger; the second - three additional pitches to Solo per un altro Hashtag - located in Val Lasties (Dolomites) with Martin Sieberer.
Natascha Knecht, Marcel Schenk uncover new mixed climb deep in Switzerland's Val Bregaglia
18/12/2019 - Alpinism
Natascha Knecht, Marcel Schenk uncover new mixed climb deep in Switzerland's Val Bregaglia
On Mt. Al Balzet in Valle Albigna, a side valley of Val Bregaglia in Switzerland, Natascha Knecht and Marcel Schenk have made the first ascent of a new mixed climb called Un poco Mondo.
Filip Babicz completes Ade Integrale, D15+ total dry deep in Gran Borna cave, Italy
17/12/2019 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz completes Ade Integrale, D15+ total dry deep in Gran Borna cave, Italy
On 26 November 2019 Filip Babicz completed Ade Integrale, a testing dry tooling route in the Gran Borna cave close to La Thuile in Valle d'Aosta, Italy. The Pole suggests D15+. The route is completely natural but, being total dry, climbs no ice whatsoever.
Mount Shkhara in Georgia: new route, first winter ascent video by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze
08/12/2019 - Alpinism
Mount Shkhara in Georgia: new route, first winter ascent video by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze
The video documenting the new route and first winter ascent of Mt. Shkhara (5,203 m) in Georgia, carried out in February 2018 by Archil Badriashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze.
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
06/12/2019 - Alpinism
Peruana Supreme up SSE Face of Siula Grande in Peru
American mountaineer Nathan Heald reports about Peruana Supreme (1000m, TD, AI4), a new route climbed alpine style up the South Face of Siula Grande in Peru with Peruvians Luis Crispin and Thomas Schilter, France's Benjamin Billet and Finland’s Arttu Pylkkanen.
Lydia Bradey, first woman to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen
03/12/2019 - Alpinism
Lydia Bradey, first woman to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen
The short film about Lydia Bradey, the mountaineer from New Zealand who in 1988 became the first woman to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen.
Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre perish on Aiguille du Plan in Mt Blanc massif
20/11/2019 - Alpinism
Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre perish on Aiguille du Plan in Mt Blanc massif
France’s Max Bonniot and Pierre Labbre have perished on Aiguille du Plan in the Mont Blanc massif. The two were considered among the most talented mountaineers of their generation.
Scottish winter climbing kickoff / Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson add Local Hero to An Teallach
20/11/2019 - Alpinism
Scottish winter climbing kickoff / Greg Boswell, Guy Robertson add Local Hero to An Teallach
Winter climbing in Scotland has begun in earnest with the first ascent of Local Hero at An Teallach by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson