1113 News found

On 25 October Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Blümel and Gerhard Fiegl reached the summit of Nilgiri South, the difficult 6839m mountain in the Annapurna massif (Nepal), having climbed the virgin South Face. The day after summiting the Austrian expedition transformed into tragedy as 27-year-old Fiegl fell to his death while descending...

Severino Seve Scassa, who climbed Italy’s first 8c+ in 1993 with Noia at Andonno, shares his views about Lapsus, the new route freed at the same crag by Stefano Ghisolfi graded 9b.

On 25/09/2015 the Russian mountaineers Aleksander Gukov, Ivan Dozhdev, Valeriy Shamalo and Ruslan Kirichenko completed the first ascent of Thulagi Chuli (7059m) a hitherto unclimbed peak in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new route up the West Face is called Happy Birthday, is 1850m high and is graded TD+, VI (5c),...

A female team of Russian climbers comprised of Marina Popova, Julia Borisova, Alexandra Mentovskaya and Olesya Babushkina has made the first repeat of the Gunko route (950m, Russian 6A) on the West Face of Peak Alexander Blok (5239m) in the Ak-Su region in Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan.

The new crag Family San Martino has been inaugurated at Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy). Located close to the historic climbing area Massone, this small sheet of rock has been bolted specifically for families and young children and offers 17 routes from 3a to 6b.

German climber Alexander Huber has established two new rock climbs on the sea cliffs at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia, Il Capitano and Solemar. The peculiarities: a boat start, difficulties up to 8b+, trad protection.

Interview with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck after climbing the 82 alpine four-thousanders, carried out in 62 days last summer from 11/06/2015 to 11/08/2015. The enchainment had previously been carried out in the same self-propelled style by Franco Nicolini and Diego Giovannini in 60 giorni in 2008. In 2007, Miha Valic...

On 2 October 2015 at Longarone (Italy) the new Via ferrata della Memoria, also referred to as Via ferrata del Vajont, was inaugurated above the Vajont Gorge. Constructed by the Cortina Mountain Guides, this is a different way to remember the Vajont disaster that struck on 9 October 1963.

In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult and at times dangerous line up the Qualido Face in...

The report by Davide Gaeta and Andrea Salvadori about the first ascent of CAI don’t cry (VIII+, R3, 300m) up the North Face of Sass de Mura, Cimonega group, Belluno Dolomites.

Aris Theodoropoulos introduces Kyparissi, a mere 5 hours from Athens and a secluded paradise for sport climbing. Although currently there are just over 100 sport climbs, the potential is enormous and the Kyparissi Climbing Festival has been organised from 2 - 4 October 2015 to celebrate the recent development in...

Interview with American rock climber Hans Florine who a fortnight ago made his 100th ascent of The Nose, the famous rock climb up El Capitan in Yosemite, USA.

British climber Tom Ballard reports about the first ascents, and first free ascents, of three routes climbed on Catinaccio - Rosengarten in the Dolomites together with Stefania Pederiva (daughter of Val di Fassa mountain guide Bruno Pederiva): Baptism of Fire (535m VIII+ (VII obl.), Scarlet Fever (300m IX- (VII+ obl.)...

The video of Dutch rock climber Jorg Verhoeven repeating The Nose on on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA, in autumn 2014.

Fulvio Zanetti talks about the first ascent of Maleficent (320mt 7c+, 7a+ oblig), established together with Francesco Beni up the NW Face of Cimon della Bagozza, Orobic Alps. The new multi-pitch rock climb up the symbol of Val di Scalve crosses Spigolo Cassin (Riccardo Cassin, Aldo Frattini and Rodolfo Varallo,...

Both Nina Caprez and Barbara Zangerl have repeated Die Unendliche Geschichte, first climbed by Beat Kammerlander in 1990 in the Rätikon massif, Switzerland. 420m high and graded 8b+, this climb had previously only been repeated once, by Italy's Pietro dal Prà in 2005.