1135 News found

On 16/11/2015 Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck climbed the Heckmair route up the North Face of the Eiger in 2 hours and 22 minutes, beating the previous record set in 2011 by Dani Arnold by 6 minutes

Daniele Nardi tells about the expedition to Thalay Sagar (6904m) in the Indian Himalaya, carried out together with the Spanish mountaineers Alex Txikon, Txus Lizarraga, Adrian Legarra, Ekaitz

Giancarlo Bellotti, Fernando Fusari and Giovanni Ghezzi have started their winter climbing season in style with the first ascent of the mixed outing La farfalla tigre (WI4 M6, 430m) on Cima Bifora (Monte Nero di Presanella, Adamello-Presanella group, Central Alps).

The brief video of Ueli Steck and Kilian Jornet Burgada climbing the North Face of the Eigher via the Heckmair route.

On 17 October Mathieu Détrie and Julien Dusserre climbed a new route up Dazampa Tse (Dzasampatse) in the Nangpai-Gosum, Himalaya, Nepal. The next day their expedition companions Pierre Labbre and Mathieu Maynadier repeated the route.

The series 'Crags for each season' published together with vertical-Life.info continues. The seventh crag is the new sport climbing and bouldering area Spiluck - Spelonca close to Vahrn / Brixen in Italy's South Tyrol.

On 25 October Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Blümel and Gerhard Fiegl reached the summit of Nilgiri South, the difficult 6839m mountain in the Annapurna massif (Nepal), having climbed the virgin South Face. The day after summiting the Austrian expedition transformed into tragedy as 27-year-old Fiegl fell to his death while descending...

Severino Seve Scassa, who climbed Italy’s first 8c+ in 1993 with Noia at Andonno, shares his views about Lapsus, the new route freed at the same crag by Stefano Ghisolfi graded 9b.

On 25/09/2015 the Russian mountaineers Aleksander Gukov, Ivan Dozhdev, Valeriy Shamalo and Ruslan Kirichenko completed the first ascent of Thulagi Chuli (7059m) a hitherto unclimbed peak in the Nepalese Himalaya. The new route up the West Face is called Happy Birthday, is 1850m high and is graded TD+, VI (5c),...

A female team of Russian climbers comprised of Marina Popova, Julia Borisova, Alexandra Mentovskaya and Olesya Babushkina has made the first repeat of the Gunko route (950m, Russian 6A) on the West Face of Peak Alexander Blok (5239m) in the Ak-Su region in Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan.

The new crag Family San Martino has been inaugurated at Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy). Located close to the historic climbing area Massone, this small sheet of rock has been bolted specifically for families and young children and offers 17 routes from 3a to 6b.

German climber Alexander Huber has established two new rock climbs on the sea cliffs at Capo Monte Santo in Sardinia, Il Capitano and Solemar. The peculiarities: a boat start, difficulties up to 8b+, trad protection.

Interview with Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck after climbing the 82 alpine four-thousanders, carried out in 62 days last summer from 11/06/2015 to 11/08/2015. The enchainment had previously been carried out in the same self-propelled style by Franco Nicolini and Diego Giovannini in 60 giorni in 2008. In 2007, Miha Valic...

On 2 October 2015 at Longarone (Italy) the new Via ferrata della Memoria, also referred to as Via ferrata del Vajont, was inaugurated above the Vajont Gorge. Constructed by the Cortina Mountain Guides, this is a different way to remember the Vajont disaster that struck on 9 October 1963.

In autumn 2014 Paolo Marazzi, Matteo de Zaiacomo and Luca Schiera completed the first ascent of King of the Bongo, a new climb that shares the first two pitches with Passi di Bimbo to then explore a 700m, independent, difficult and at times dangerous line up the Qualido Face in...

The report by Davide Gaeta and Andrea Salvadori about the first ascent of CAI don’t cry (VIII+, R3, 300m) up the North Face of Sass de Mura, Cimonega group, Belluno Dolomites.