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Adam Ondra starts 'final push' on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
15/11/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra starts 'final push' on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic has begun his single push ground up attempt to free climb the Dawn Wall, freed after 19 days by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2014/2015.
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview
02/11/2016 - Interviews
Jernej Kruder / the Es Pontas deep water solo interview
Interview with Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who on 01/11/2016 made the first repeat of Es Pontas, the famous deep water solo climb first ascended a decade ago by Chris Sharma on the island of Mallorca, Spain.
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's...
Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world’s first 9A boulder problem
24/10/2016 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world’s first 9A boulder problem
Finnish rock climber Nalle Hukkataival has made the first ascent of Burden of Dreams, his project at Lappnor in Finland, for which he has now suggested 9A. Should the grade be confirmed, this would be the first boulder problem to...
Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free Sueños de Invierno on Naranjo de Bulnes
20/10/2016 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free Sueños de Invierno on Naranjo de Bulnes
German climbers Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl have made the first free ascent of 'Sueños de Invierno' (540m, 8a), the rock climb first ascended in 1983 by José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díez Vives up Naranjo de Bulnes...
Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
19/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra sees first light on Dawn Wall in Yosemite
During his first visit to Yosemite, USA, Czech climber Adam Ondra has immediately begun attempting 'Dawn Wall', the hardest big wall climb in world freed on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson.
Elephant Baby and Gravity Games 30 years later. By Rolando Larcher
19/10/2016 - Climbing
Elephant Baby and Gravity Games 30 years later. By Rolando Larcher
Thirty years later. The report by Rolando Larcher who, with his son Alessandro, returned to the climbs Elephant Baby (at San Paolo) and Gravity Games (at Eremo) not only to repeat these historic routes established in 1986 and the first...
Adam Ondra 9b first ascent and 8c+ onsight in Slovakia
13/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra 9b first ascent and 8c+ onsight in Slovakia
Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra who on 05/10/2016 at Alternativna stena in Slovakia made the first ascent of 'Robin Úd', a 9b sports climb, before on sighting the 8c+ 'C'est la vie'.
Mongolfiera in Val di Mello: the video of Pana
10/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mongolfiera in Val di Mello: the video of Pana
The video of Pana (8b, 300m) the new multi-pitch sports climb established by Simone Pedeferri and Daniele Bianchi up the huge and secluded Mongolfiera cliff Val Masino (Italy).
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
10/10/2016 - Alpinism
Mike Kosterlitz awarded Nobel Prize in Physics
Mike Kosterlitz was recently awarded the Nobel Prize in Physics. Apart from his scientific genius, the Scotsman was an expert climber and mountaineer who left his mark in particular in Italy’s Orco valley with his famous Fessura Kosterlitz. By Giovanni...
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
06/10/2016 - Climbing
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
On the 4th Kirchlispitze (2494m) in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel have made the first ascent of Prix Garantie (7c, 220m).
Wenden, Fabio Palma and Paolo Spreafico create La lunga attesa in Switzerland
04/10/2016 - Alpinism
Wenden, Fabio Palma and Paolo Spreafico create La lunga attesa in Switzerland
Paolo Spreafico reports about 'La lunga attesa', the new rock climb established together with Fabio Palma up the marvellous Wenden limestone in Switzerland.
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
30/09/2016 - Climbing
Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher repeat The Shaft on El Capitan, Yosemite
In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.
Chris Sharma climbs hard new DWS at Mallorca
24/09/2016 - Climbing
Chris Sharma climbs hard new DWS at Mallorca
American climber Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of Alasha, a difficult new deep water solo climb on the island of Mallorca.
Nordwestwand, first free ascent up Wetterstein’s Schwarze Wand
21/09/2016 - Alpinism
Nordwestwand, first free ascent up Wetterstein’s Schwarze Wand
In August 2016 Xaver Mayr and Thomas Holler made the first free ascent of Nordwestwand (300m, VIII) on Schwarze Wand, Wetterstein.
Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
14/09/2016 - Climbing
Action Directe, Wolfgang Güllich's 25-year-old Frankenjura masterpiece
Action Directe was established by Wolfgang Güllich on 14 September 1991 at Waldkopf in Germany's Frankenjura. The route set new new standards in sport climbing and now, precisely twenty-five years after the first ascent, Planetmountain.com takes a step back in...

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