1205 News found

Winter mountaineering: the video of the first repeat of Metanoia, carried out in December 2016 by Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli, 25 years after the first ascent at the hands of Jeff Lowe in 1991.

Interview with Polish alpinist Marek Raganowicz who, from 11 - 26 January 2017, made the first solo winter ascent of Troll Wall (Trollveggen) in Norway by repeating the climb Suser gjennom Harryland (6/A3).

Alpinism: the video documenting the first ascent of Pleishornwasserfall, the new ice and mixed climb established on 13/12/2016 by Daniel Ladurner and Johannes Lemayer up the NE Face of Ortler (3905m).

Last weekend South Korea’s Han Na Rai Song and HeeYong Park won the fourth and penultimate stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 in Saas Fee, Switzerland. The Speed event was won by the Russians Vladimir Kartashev and Ekaterina Koshcheeva.

Winter mountaineering: on 31/12/2016 at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites the alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini climbed in a singole day Via Comici-Dimai on Cima Grande (in 1:45), the Cassin route up Cima Ovest (2:45) and the Innerkofler route up Cima Piccola (1:15).

South Tyrolean mountaineer Erich Abram passed away on Monday 16 January 2017 at Bozen aged 95. The talented mountaineer and climber played an important role in the 1954 Italian expedition that made the first ascent of K2.

Alpinism: on 29 and 30 December 2016 Daniele Natali and Maurizio Panseri made the first winter ascent of 12 anni di Albani, the route up the north face of Presolana, Italy, established in 1999 by Domenico Berlinghieri, Stefano Magri and Roby Piantoni.

Last weekend the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2017 took place in Beijing, China; Russians Nikolai Kuzovlev and Maria Tolokonina won the Lead event, wile the Speed event was won by their teammates Radomir Proshchenko and Ekaterina Koshcheeva.

Alpinism: Luca Godenzi reports about a rare winter ascent of the famous Cassin route on the NE Face of Badile, carried out from 30 to 31 December 2016 with Carlo Micheli.

Philipp Angelo, Fabrizio della Rossa and Thomas Gianola report about their first ascent of All-in (AI 6-, M7, R), a difficult new ice and mixed climb up the north face of Sas Pegorer, Gran Vernel (Marmolada, Dolomites).

In December 2016 Matej Arh and Klemen Gerbec made the first winter ascents of two summer routes up the north face of Mt Škrlatica in Slovenia. In their winter version these routes offer outstanding and challenging winter climbing in one of the most beautiful and remote corners of the Julian...

Mountaineering in the Mont Blanc massif: on the north face of Aiguille des Pélerins (3318m) Jeff Mercier, together with Lucien Boucansaud, Xavier Cailhol and Bastien Lardat, has climbed 'Les Flammes de l’enfer’, a new variation to the famous ice and mixed climb Beyond Good and Evil.

From 29 to 30 December 2016 Thomas Huber, Stephan Siegrist and Roger Schaeli scored the long-awaited second ascent of Metanoia, Jeff Lowe’s masterpiece on the north face of the Eiger. The route was established solo over a period of nine days in winter 1991 by the leading American alpinist and,...

Winter mountaineering: Ines Papert reports about the first repeat of the ice and mixed climb ‘Nordest Supercombo' (800m, M7, R) up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile, carried out on 30/12/2016 together with Luka Lindič

Winter mountaineering in the Julian Alps: on 18 December 2016 Enrico Mosetti, Alberto Giassi and Davide Limongi made the first ascent of ‘Amici per sempre’ (IV /4+, 350m), a new mixed climb up the north face of Cima Verde del Monte Montasio.

Alessio Tait introduces the stunning crag Malga Spora at Croz of Giovan. Another little sport climbing gem in the Brenta Dolomites.