Home page Planetmountain.com
Spanish mountaineer Alex Txikon during his attempt to climb Everest in winter
Photo by archive Alex Txikon
Reinhold Messner and Alex Txikon at Everest Case Camp in early March 2016
Photo by archive Alex Txikon

Alex Txikon sets off on last Everest attempt


The Everest winter expedition led by Alex Txikon is now in its final phase: after having reorganised the expedition and waited for several weeks, the Basque mountaineer along with several Sherpa has now reached Camp 2 and is about to begin his final bid for the summit.

Alex Txikon has set off. Yesterday the Spanish mountaineer started up what he has defined as "the last attempt" to climb Everest in winter and without supplemental oxygen. We last reported about the Basque in mid-February, when he attempted to reach the summit of the highest mountain in the world in the coldest season but at the time he, Nurbu Sherpa and Cheppal Sherpa were forced to descend from the South Col at 7950m due to high winds.

On reaching Base Camp Txikon then had to involuntarily and temporarily abandon his attempt as all the members of his expedition had been called back to Kathmandu, and Txikon had to regroup in a rush in order to keep his dream alive. Two weeks later, the 35 year-old returned to Base Camp by helicopter, accompanied this time by Nuri Sherpa, five new Sherpa and two "Icefall Doctors”. In late February the climbers managed to find their way through the Icefall labyrinth and set foot on the mountain proper.

While waiting for the weather window, Txikon received a visit from Reinhold Messner, one of the world’s foremost experts about climbing without supplementary oxygen: in 1978 the South Tyrolean, together with Austria’s Peter Habeler, became the first person in the world to climb Everest without supplementary oxygen. Theirs was a revolutionary climb that defied all medical and scientific logic of that era. Just two years later Messner again changed the face of mountaineering with his audacious first ascent of a new route up Everest, in complete solitude over four days up the mountain’s North Face, once again without 02. A climb defined as one of the most astounding feats in mountaineering history.

Motivated by Messner’s visit, Txikon has now set off once again for that same 8848m high summit. Yesterday he reached Camp 2, where, after resting night, he planned to leave with Nuri Sherpa, supported by German, Temba, Sanu and Pasang Nurbu. Before setting off Txikon had stated "Until now, the wind does not stop and hit us hard, but the mere fact of having the opportunity to try, pushes us forward.Fingers crossed. I need you more than ever to be with me. Let's go for the last attempt!"

10/02/2017 - Everest in winter / Alex Txikon & Co start summit bid
14/02/2017 - Everest in winter / First attempt failed. Alex Txikon & Co return to Base Camp





Full text search


EXPO / Products
EXPO / Company News
Planetmountain.com logo
Planetmountain.com is updated daily: news, rock climbing, walks, trekking, alpinism, freeride skiing, ski mountaineering, snowboarding and ice climbing on the mountains worldwide. Furthermore, climbing techniques explained, gear & book reviews, expert advice, mountain photography, interviews and competition reports.

Subscriber to receive the weekly newsletter with all the latest news from planetmountain.com

Recent Comments Ice
  • Distensione
    Via sportiva molto bella, dalla linea logica, in ambiente su ...
    2017-09-14 / Michele Lucchini
  • L'uomo Volante
    Il 10 giugno 2017, insieme all'amico Michele, decidiamo di r ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • Gallo George
    Il 16 luglio 2016, invogliati dalla relazione, ci siamo avve ...
    2017-07-12 / Enrico Maioni
  • All-in
    Francesco Salvaterra e Filippo Mosca 27 gennaio 2017, probab ...
    2017-02-02 / Francesco Salvaterra