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XX Mezzalama behind the scenes...
XX Mezzalama behind the scenes...
The 'behind the scenes' insight written by Marco Spataro, one of the many mountain guides and pros involved in safety preparations of the twentieth edition of Mezzalama, the legendary ski mountaineering competition on Monte Rosa, won last Saturday by Michele Boscacci, Matteo Eydallin and Damiano Lenzi and by Emelie Forsberg,...
Dani Arnold climbs Matterhorn Schmid route in 1:46
01/05/2015 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold climbs Matterhorn Schmid route in 1:46
On 22/04/2015 Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold climbed the Schmid route on the North Face of the Matterhorn in 1 hour and 46 minutes, 10 minutes faster than previous record holder Ueli Steck in 2009.
Nepal earthquake: Oskar Piazza, Gigliola Mancinelli, Renzo Benedetti and Marco Pojer perish
27/04/2015 - Alpinism
Nepal earthquake: Oskar Piazza, Gigliola Mancinelli, Renzo Benedetti and Marco Pojer perish
The news was made official a few hours ago: the well-known Italian mountain guide and member of the mountain rescue service Oskar Piazza and Dr. Gigliola Mancinelli perished beneath an avalanche triggered by the earthquake that destroyed the village of Langtang in northern Nepal. The other two expedition members Giovanni...
XX Mezzalama legendary ski mountaineering Saturday 25 April
20/04/2015 - Competitions
XX Mezzalama legendary ski mountaineering Saturday 25 April
The XX Mezzalama, the legendary ski mountaineering competition in the Monte Rosa massif, takes place on 25 April 2015. Marco Spataro reports.
Elba Discovery #3, Madonna del Monte and the third Rock Slave XP 2014 video
14/04/2015 - Climbing
Elba Discovery #3, Madonna del Monte and the third Rock Slave XP 2014 video
The third episode of Rock Slave XP 2014 Elba Discovery: Madonna del Monte and the climbing and bouldering Italy's Isola d'Elba. With Luca Andreozzi, Martina Blanchet, Federica Mingolla, Alberto Gotta, Alessandro Palma, Marzio Nardi and Adriano Trombetta.
Piolet d'Or 2015: the grande finale at Courmayeur
13/04/2015 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2015: the grande finale at Courmayeur
On Saturday 11 April the awards ceremony of the 23rd Piolets d'Or, the Oscars of alpinism, were held at Courmayeur, Italy. Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold, Russians Aleksander Gukov and Aleksey Lonchinsky and Slovenians Marko Prezelj, Ales Cesen and Luka Lindic were awarded the Piolet d'Or 2015. Britain’s Chris...
Villasimius, Cala Usai restyled in Sardinia
24/03/2015 - Climbing
Villasimius, Cala Usai restyled in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia introduces the stunning sea crag Cala Usai to Villasimìus in southern Sardinia. New routes have been added while old routes have been rebolted, and the sea cliff now hosts nearly 40 routes from 4c to 8a.
Piolet d'Or 2015: three expeditions selected
05/03/2015 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2015: three expeditions selected
Three expeditions have been selected for the Piolets d'Or 2015: the traverse of the Fitz Roy range by Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold,the ascent ofl Thamserku by the Russians Alexander Gukov and Alexei Lonchinskiy and the ascent of Hagshu by the Slovenians Ales Cesen, Luka Lindic and Marko Prezelj. During...
San Vito Lo Capo. Full stop and start over again.
17/02/2015 - Climbing
San Vito Lo Capo. Full stop and start over again.
We have received and gladly publish the press release of the representatives of the two associations (Rocce di Sicilia, the organisers of the of San Vito Climbing Festival and YMCA Climbing House, the shop and meeting place for climbers, bikers and trekkers) that operate together to promote the development of...
Tour Ronde, two probable new British mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
10/02/2015 - Alpinism
Tour Ronde, two probable new British mixed climbs in the Mont Blanc massif
British mountain guide Matt Helliker has made what is believed to be the first ascent of two new mixed climbs on Tour Ronde in the Mont Blanc massif: Chancer (M6, 250m) climbed with Jon Bracey and Night Fever (M8, 250m), climbed with Nick Bullock.
Sappada abseil stations replaced on ice climbs
06/02/2015 - Alpinism
Sappada abseil stations replaced on ice climbs
At Sappada, Northern Italy, the local mountain guides have replaced the abseil belays of more than 50 ice falls. The report by Pierpaolo Pedrini
Cima Brenta - South Face ski descent by Alessandro Beber and Marco Maganzini
Cima Brenta - South Face ski descent by Alessandro Beber and Marco Maganzini
The video of the ski descent of the South Face of Cima Brenta, carried out by Alessandro Beber and Marco Maganzini in spring 2014.
Turkey ice climbing Festival at Erzurum. The report by Anna Torretta
03/02/2015 - Alpinism
Turkey ice climbing Festival at Erzurum. The report by Anna Torretta
From 21 to 25 January 2015, Turkey’s first-ever international ice climbing festival took place at Erzurum (Anatolia). Participants included Anna Torretta (a mountain guide from Courmayeur) and Spain’s Cecilia Buil who made the first ascents of two beautiful icefalls: Anatolia Pillar, WI6 100m, in Cevizli valley and Sugar couloir (seker...
Progetto Icaro at Santa Caterina, Italy
Progetto Icaro at Santa Caterina, Italy
The report about the first stage of Progetto Icaro 2014/2015 that took place at Santa Caterina, Alta Valtellina on Monday 22 December 2014.
Tom Ballard, Cima Grande di Lavaredo and Pizzo Badile in winter for his Starlight and Storm project
21/01/2015 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard, Cima Grande di Lavaredo and Pizzo Badile in winter for his Starlight and Storm project
British mountaineer Tom Ballard, as part of his project Starlight and Storm to climb the six great North Faces of the Alps in winter, has recently climbed the Comici - Dimai route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites and the Cassin route up the NE Face of Pizzo...
First ski descents in the Dolomites by Vascellari, D'Alpaos and De Barba
First ski descents in the Dolomites by Vascellari, D'Alpaos and De Barba
Between February and May 2014, Italian skiers Francesco Vascellari, Davide D'Alpaos and Loris De Barba carried out a series of first ski descents to solve some old problems in the Dolomites. They concluded their run with a repeat of the East Face of the Matterhorn, first skied by Tone Valeruz...

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