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Karl Unterkircher Award 2012, the nominations
08/06/2012 - Events
Karl Unterkircher Award 2012, the nominations
The second edition of the Karl Unterkircher Award will take place on 6 July 2012 at Selva di Val Gardena in the Italian Dolomites. The alpinists nominated for this award are Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards for the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II, Sean Villanueva, Ben Ditto,...
Ueli Steck and Everest: the ascent of a great alpinist
04/06/2012 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck and Everest: the ascent of a great alpinist
The report of Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck who on 18 May 2012 reached the summit of Everest along with Tenji Sherpa. We have published the account in its entirety as this provides insight into the crowds present during this pre-monsoon season, the job of the Sherpa and what it means...
Everest like an amusement park, Simone Moro abandons Everest and Lhotse attempt
24/05/2012 - Interviews
Everest like an amusement park, Simone Moro abandons Everest and Lhotse attempt
Interview with Simone Moro who descended to Everst base camp today and abandoned his project of climbing Everest and then Lhotse without supplementary oxygen due to the massive crowds on the mountain (more than 200 are currently attempting to reach its summit) and the dangers association with this overcrowding.
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and David Göttler summit Nuptse
22/05/2012 - Alpinism
Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and David Göttler summit Nuptse
On 17 May Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and David Göttler reached the summit of Nuptse (7861m) via the long and difficult North Ridge Scott route. A beautiful and testing climb, far removed from the nearby crowds at Everest.
Bavella 2012, two new rock climbs in Corsica by Giupponi, Larcher, Oviglia and Sartori
21/05/2012 - Climbing
Bavella 2012, two new rock climbs in Corsica by Giupponi, Larcher, Oviglia and Sartori
At the start of May 2012 in Corsica's Bavella massif the Italians Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia made the first ascent of Vecchia Felpa on Punta U Peru (190m, 7c max /RS2/I) while Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori made the firts ascent of Tafunata Galattica up the Contrafforti di...
Everest, three alpinists die on black Saturday
21/05/2012 - Alpinism
Everest, three alpinists die on black Saturday
On Saturday 19 May 2012 three alpinists - a German, a Canadian and a Korean - lost their lives on the South Face of Everest, in part due to a sudden storm. Another two alpinists are reported missing, while other alpinists in difficulty were rescued by helicopter from Camp 2....
Simone Moro between Everest, Lhotse and helicopter rescues
16/05/2012 - Interviews
Simone Moro between Everest, Lhotse and helicopter rescues
Interview with Simone Moro, currently at Everest base camp preparing to ascend Everest and Lhotse in a single push while still finding the time to co-ordinate and take part in helicopter rescues.
Miss Acopan, new route in Venezuela by Krajnc and Obid
06/04/2012 - Climbing
Miss Acopan, new route in Venezuela by Krajnc and Obid
In December 2011 and January 2012 Slovenian climbers Luka Krajnc and Matic Obid repeated a number of routes on Acopan Tepui and established their Miss Acopan (7b, 250m).
Gasherbrum I, historic Polish first winter ascent and drama for Göschl, Hussain and Hahlen
12/03/2012 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum I, historic Polish first winter ascent and drama for Göschl, Hussain and Hahlen
At 08:30 local time on 09/03/2012 the summit of Gasherbrum 1 (Karakorum, Pakistan) was reached for the first time in winter by the Polish mountaineers Adam Bielecki and Janusz Golab. On the same day the alpinists Gerfried Göschl, Nisar Hussain and Cedric Hahlen were seen for the last time on...
Cerro Autana, new route The Yopo Wall in Venezuela
10/03/2012 - Climbing
Cerro Autana, new route The Yopo Wall in Venezuela
From January 28 – February 5 2012 Leo Houlding, Jason Pickles, Sean Leary, Alastair Lee, Yupi Rangel, Alejandro Lamus established The Yopo Wall (400m, E6 6b, A1) up Cerro Autana in Venezuela.
Nanga Parbat winter expedition: Moro and Urubko abandon attempt
14/02/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat winter expedition: Moro and Urubko abandon attempt
Simone Moro and Denis Urubko have announced their decision today to abandon their attempt of the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (Pakistan) via the Diamir Face due to the prohibitive weather conditions.
Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition, dispatch #4
30/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition, dispatch #4
The fourth video of the Nanga Parbat 2012 winter expedition of Simone Moro and Denis Urubko.
Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
News from Nanga Parbat: Simone Moro and Denis Urubko continue to explore their hopes and the mountain itself. Yesterday they ventured to beyond 5800m to reach the base of the couloir which they will attempt to climb via their (new) route to the summit.
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012 - Alpinism
Mario Merelli, goodbye to the alpinist from Bergamo
18/01/2012. Mario Merelli died this morning at 8:00am while climbing up Pizzo Redorta (Val Seriana, Bergamo, Italy). Merelli was one of the most famous Italian alpinists and Himalayan mountaineers and one of the driving forces of the Bergamo mountaineering scene.
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
14/01/2012 - Alpinism
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
On 22,23,24 December 2011 the Italian Mountain Guide Andrea Di Donato and the alpinist from Chile Andres Zegers ascended the South Face of Aconcagua (6962m, Andes, Argentina), establishing a probable 800m new start variation to the Direct French route.
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
13/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, Moro and Urubko aim to climb route attempted by Messner and Eisendle
On 12/01/2012 Simone Moro and Denis Urubko acclimatised at 5400m on the Diamir Face of Nanga Parbat. Their attempt at the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat will be via the line attempted by Messner and Eisendle in 2000, and not via the Kinshofer route.