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New climb up Cima Cee in Brenta Dolomites by Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi
19/06/2020 - Alpinism
New climb up Cima Cee in Brenta Dolomites by Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi
On Cima Cee in Val di Tovel, Brenta Dolomites, Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of Fine di un’Epoca, the end of an era, dedicated to Larcher’s father Renato. Larcher provides the report.
Climbing the Cassin - Ratti on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites. By Carlo Cosi
04/06/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing the Cassin - Ratti on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites. By Carlo Cosi
The historic Cassin - Ratti route the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, established by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti with two bivouacs from 28-30 August 1935, is a landmark in climbing history. Italian Mountain Guide Carlo Cosi recalls his summer 2019 repeat with Sara Mastel.
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
06/04/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago
Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of Action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays just two decades ago, the route is considered one of...
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
27/11/2019 - Climbing
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs
Heinz Mariacher shares his thoughts after Magnus Midtbø paid a visit to Arco, Italy, during which the Norwegian climber attempted to classic slab climbs dating back to the 1980s and first ascended by Mariacher himself: Super Swing at the Swing Area and Tom & Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole.
Cashan West climbed in Peru by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
06/08/2019 - Alpinism
Cashan West climbed in Peru by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce
Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Manu Ponce have made the first ascent of Andean Kingdom (800m, 7a+), the first route up the North Face of Cashan West (5,686m) in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range of the Andes, Peru.
Ben Moon climbing at Buoux, 30 years after Agincourt
03/05/2019 - Climbing
Ben Moon climbing at Buoux, 30 years after Agincourt
British rock climber Ben Moon returns to Buoux 30 years after establishing Agincourt, the first 8c in France.
Mezzalama Trophy 2019 / The hardest edition ever
28/04/2019 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2019 / The hardest edition ever
The most difficult Mezzlama ski mountaineering competition of all times was won on Sunday 28 April 2019 by the Italians Robert Antonioli, Michele Boscacci and Matteo Eydallin. France’s Lorna Bonnel and Axelle Mollaret and Italy’s Alba de Silvestro dominated the women’s race.
Remembering Hansjörg Auer. By Nicola Tondini
22/04/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Hansjörg Auer. By Nicola Tondini
Italian alpinist Nicola Tondini remembers Hansjörg Auer, the great Austrian mountaineer who died last week in an avalanche in Canada, along with David Lama and Jess Roskelley.
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The loss of this world class trio of alpinists is unfathomable.
Aiguille de la Brenva mixed climbs in Mont Blanc massif by Ezio Marlier, Gianpaolo Ducly
12/03/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille de la Brenva mixed climbs in Mont Blanc massif by Ezio Marlier, Gianpaolo Ducly
Ezio Marlier introduces Million Reasons and Sole, two modern mixed climbs on the East Face of Aiguille de la Brenva in the Mont Blanc massif, established with Gianpaolo Ducly.
For Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard lost forever on Nanga Parbat
09/03/2019 - Alpinism
For Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard lost forever on Nanga Parbat
The news broke a short time ago that the search has officially been called off on Nanga Parbat for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard, the two mountaineers who have not been heard from since Sunday 24 February.
Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
14/01/2019 - Alpinism
Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi
Tomas Franchini recalls the first ascent of Selvaggia Sorte up Cima Tosa, 3133 m, in the Brenta Dolomites. After a first solo attempt, the mixed climb was established by Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013
Sébastien Bouin repeats Agincourt at Buoux, France’s historic first 8c
20/11/2018 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin repeats Agincourt at Buoux, France’s historic first 8c
At Buoux Sébastien Bouin has repeated Agincourt, France’s first 8c sports climb freed by Ben Moon in 1989.
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven
29/08/2018 - Alpinism
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven
Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven talks about his ascent of the Peutérey Integral ridge on Mont Blanc, carried out with Martin Schidlowski from 13 - 15 July 2018.
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report
28/08/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report
New details have emerged in English about the ill-fated Russian expedition to Latok I that resulted in the death of Sergey Glazunov and the dramatic rescue of his climbing partner Alexander Gukov. In this report Gukov believes they reached the end of the North Ridge.
Ciao Monica
18/07/2018 - Alpinism
Ciao Monica
Two days ago Monica Campo Bagatin passed away. For over 35 years she ran the hut Rifugio Casèra Bosconero in Val di Zoldo, Dolomites and she was the first woman to join the Val Zoldana mountain rescue squad. On 28 July she would have received at Rocca Pietore the Pelmo...

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