101 News found

19/06/2020 - Alpinism
New climb up Cima Cee in Brenta Dolomites by Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi On Cima Cee in Val di Tovel, Brenta Dolomites, Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of Fine di un’Epoca, the end of an era, dedicated to Larcher’s father Renato. Larcher provides the report.

04/06/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing the Cassin - Ratti on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites. By Carlo Cosi The historic Cassin - Ratti route the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, established by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti with two bivouacs from 28-30 August 1935, is a landmark in climbing history. Italian Mountain Guide Carlo Cosi recalls his summer 2019 repeat with Sara Mastel.

06/04/2020 - Climbing
Iker Pou, my ascent of Action Directe in Frankenjura 20 years ago Spanish climber Iker Pou recalls his ascent 20 years ago of Action Directe, the Frankenjura masterpiece freed by Wolfgang Güllich in 1991. At the time, Pou’s ascent in autumn 2000 was only the second repeat after Alexander Adler and, nowadays just two decades ago, the route is considered one of...

27/11/2019 - Climbing
Heinz Mariacher: Back to the future? Magnus Midtbø explores Arco's historic slab climbs Heinz Mariacher shares his thoughts after Magnus Midtbø paid a visit to Arco, Italy, during which the Norwegian climber attempted to classic slab climbs dating back to the 1980s and first ascended by Mariacher himself: Super Swing at the Swing Area and Tom & Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole.

06/08/2019 - Alpinism
Cashan West climbed in Peru by Iker Pou, Eneko Pou, Manu Ponce Iker Pou, Eneko Pou and Manu Ponce have made the first ascent of Andean Kingdom (800m, 7a+), the first route up the North Face of Cashan West (5,686m) in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range of the Andes, Peru.

03/05/2019 - Climbing
Ben Moon climbing at Buoux, 30 years after Agincourt British rock climber Ben Moon returns to Buoux 30 years after establishing Agincourt, the first 8c in France.

28/04/2019 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2019 / The hardest edition ever The most difficult Mezzlama ski mountaineering competition of all times was won on Sunday 28 April 2019 by the Italians Robert Antonioli, Michele Boscacci and Matteo Eydallin. France’s Lorna Bonnel and Axelle Mollaret and Italy’s Alba de Silvestro dominated the women’s race.

22/04/2019 - Alpinism
Remembering Hansjörg Auer. By Nicola Tondini Italian alpinist Nicola Tondini remembers Hansjörg Auer, the great Austrian mountaineer who died last week in an avalanche in Canada, along with David Lama and Jess Roskelley.

19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The loss of this world class trio of alpinists is unfathomable.

12/03/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguille de la Brenva mixed climbs in Mont Blanc massif by Ezio Marlier, Gianpaolo Ducly Ezio Marlier introduces Million Reasons and Sole, two modern mixed climbs on the East Face of Aiguille de la Brenva in the Mont Blanc massif, established with Gianpaolo Ducly.

09/03/2019 - Alpinism
For Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard lost forever on Nanga Parbat The news broke a short time ago that the search has officially been called off on Nanga Parbat for Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard, the two mountaineers who have not been heard from since Sunday 24 February.

14/01/2019 - Alpinism
Selvaggia Sorte, Cima Tosa and the 2013 first ascent by Tomas Franchini, Alessandro Lucchi Tomas Franchini recalls the first ascent of Selvaggia Sorte up Cima Tosa, 3133 m, in the Brenta Dolomites. After a first solo attempt, the mixed climb was established by Franchini and Alessandro Lucchi in 2013

20/11/2018 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin repeats Agincourt at Buoux, France’s historic first 8c At Buoux Sébastien Bouin has repeated Agincourt, France’s first 8c sports climb freed by Ben Moon in 1989.

29/08/2018 - Alpinism
Peutérey Integral, the more interesting way to the top of Mont Blanc. By Jorg Verhoeven Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven talks about his ascent of the Peutérey Integral ridge on Mont Blanc, carried out with Martin Schidlowski from 13 - 15 July 2018.

28/08/2018 - Alpinism
Latok I, the Alexander Gukov climbing report New details have emerged in English about the ill-fated Russian expedition to Latok I that resulted in the death of Sergey Glazunov and the dramatic rescue of his climbing partner Alexander Gukov. In this report Gukov believes they reached the end of the North Ridge.

18/07/2018 - Alpinism
Ciao Monica Two days ago Monica Campo Bagatin passed away. For over 35 years she ran the hut Rifugio Casèra Bosconero in Val di Zoldo, Dolomites and she was the first woman to join the Val Zoldana mountain rescue squad. On 28 July she would have received at Rocca Pietore the Pelmo...
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