790 News found
04/02/2014 - Alpinism
In defence of alpinism, the speech by Bernard Amy to the Italian Academic Alpine Club The speech by well known French mountaineer and writer Bernard Amy, on the occasion of his appointment as an honorary member of the Italian Academic Alpine Club, Turin, 26 October 2013.
04/02/2014 - Interviews
Adam Ondra, interview after First Round First Minute repeat at Margalef Interview with Adam Ondra after his repeat of First Round First Minute, the 9b sport climb freed by Chris Sharma at Margalef, Spain.
24/01/2014 - Alpinism
The Piolets d’Or 2014 international Jury announced: George Lowe president George Lowe, Erri De Luca, Catherine Destivelle, Denis Urubko, Lin Sung Muk and Karin Steinbach are the members of the highly expertPiolets d'Or 2014 Jury, with complementary approaches, endowed with a mountain spirit transcending the framework and limits of the discipline
16/01/2014 - Climbing
Montserrat, Eneko and Iker Pou climb Tarragó, the route that no longer exists At the end of November 2013 Iker Pou and his brother Eneko made the first free ascent of La Tarragó at Montserrat in Spain. The 240m line boasted difficulties up to 8b+ but subsequently the bolts were removed by unknown climbers and, as such, no longer exists.
07/01/2014 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi sends 9a at Grotta dell'Arenauta, Italy During the Christmas holidays Stefano Ghisolfi repeated Grandi gesti 9a at Grotta dell'Arenauta, Sperlonga, Italy. Furthermore, at Pietra di Bismantova he managed to flash an 8b+.
25/12/2013 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Is not always Pasqua at Interprete, Italy At the Italian crag Collina di Interprete James Pearson has made the first ground-up repeat of Is not always Pasqua, the E9 trad climb freed in 2002 by Mauro Calibani and repeated only by Cristian Brenna. Furthermore, two days previously the British rock climber freed a route at the same...
09/12/2013 - Alpinism
Ermanno Salvaterra and the Torre Egger attempt in Patagonia Italian alpinist Ermanno Salvaterra recounts his recent attempt up the West Face of Torre Egger in Patagonia, carried out with Tomas Franchini, Paolo Grisa and Francesco Salvaterra in November. During the last expedition days Tomas Franchini and Francesco Salvaterra made the first ascent of the difficult and frightening Ruleta Trentino...
21/11/2013 - Climbing
Fisioterapia d'urto, new climb in the Brenta Dolomites by Larcher, Giupponi and Sartori Fisioterapia d'urto (350m, 7c+/8a max, obligatory 7b) the new route put up by Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori on the North Face of Cima Dagnola (2195m, Brenta Dolomites) and freed in August by Larcher, Giupponi and Herman Zanetti. The report by Luca Giupponi.
11/11/2013 - Climbing
Pedra Longa, Baunei. New plaisir climb in Sardinia Maurizio Oviglia introduces 'Marinaio di foresta' (190m, 6a+ max, 5c obbl.) a new climb established in October 2013 together with Cecilia Marchi and Giorgio Caddeo up the beautiful Pedra Longa, or Agugliastra, sea stack (Baunei, Sardinia).
06/11/2013 - Alpinism
Kang Nachugo East, Santiago Padros and Domen Kastelic establish Monsoon On 21 and 22 October 2013 Santiago Padros and Domen Kastelic made the first ascent of Monsoon (1500m /75°) up the SW Face of Kang Nachugo East, Rolwaling valley, Himalaya, Nepal.
30/10/2013 - Climbing
Adam Ondra single day Frankenjura 9a hattrick On 28 October 2013 Adam Ondra climbed three 9a's in a day in Germany's Frankenjura: The Elder Statesman, The House of Shock and Sever the Wicked Hand.
23/10/2013 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, Patagonia and three first winter ascents In September Hervé Barmasse with Martin Castrillo made the first winter ascent of Cerro Pollone and with Martin Castrillo and Pedrito el "fino" the first ascent (in winter) of two of the three Colmillos summits in the Cordon Marconi area.
15/10/2013 - Alpinism
A tribute to Ueli Steck and the visionaries of alpinism. By Ivo Ferrari A look back at Ueli Steck and his solo ascent of the South Face of Annapurna... I've been surprised for years, and I don't envy them because the great thing is knowing and realising that these "visionaries" are up there, unattainable yet key to all of us who dream....
15/10/2013 - Events
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2013, everyone wins Alexander Megos and Caroline Ciavaldini have won the The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2013, the meeting that took place on the Greek island from 10 to 13 October.
09/10/2013 - Alpinism
Blåmann Wall, aid climbing up Atlantis on Kvaløya Island, Norway Diego Pezzoli recounts his recent of the aid climb Atlantis (400m, A1+/A2, 8-/8) up the Blamann Wall, Kvaløya Island, Norway.
02/10/2013 - Alpinism
Kapura South, first ascent in Pakistan's Nangma Valley by Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo In early September 2013 the Portugese climbers Daniela Teixeira and Paulo Roxo made the first ascent Kapura South (6350m) in the Nangma Valley, Karakoram, Pakistan, via their route Never Ending Dreams (1300m, M4).
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