1137 News found

Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.

In October 2015 on Torre Argentina in the Vallaccia group (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) the brothers Enrico Geremia and Nicolò Geremia made the first ascent of 'Via dei Balotini', a new rock climb to the right of Via Maffei - Frizzera.

Florian Riegler reports about the first ascent of Black Pearl (8a+, 170m) a new multi-pitch route he first ascended with his brother Martin Riegler in Val Lunga, Dolomites.

Thirty years later. The report by Rolando Larcher who, with his son Alessandro, returned to the climbs Elephant Baby (at San Paolo) and Gravity Games (at Eremo) not only to repeat these historic routes established in 1986 and the first to be graded 8a at Arco, but also to show...

On 6 October 2016 Gérard Ottavio, president of the Matterhorn Alpine Guides, and Joel Déanoz, director of the Breuil-Cervinia ski school, fell to their deaths on the South Face of the Matterhorn during an attempt to repeat the difficult and demanding Deffeyes - Carrel route. Their deaths are an immense...

On the 4th Kirchlispitze (2494m) in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel have made the first ascent of Prix Garantie (7c, 220m).

Paolo Spreafico reports about 'La lunga attesa', the new rock climb established together with Fabio Palma up the marvellous Wenden limestone in Switzerland.

In spring 2016 Austrian climbers Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher made a rare free ascent of The Shaft (Muir Wall free variation) on El Capitan, Yosemite, accompanied by Ben Lepesant who provides the report.

In August 2016 French alpinists Arnaud Bayol, Antoine Bletton, Cyril Duchene and Dimitry Munoz established 'El Juego Sumando' ( 400m, ED 7b max, 6b/A2 obligatory) on the North Face of Puscanturpa Este in the Cordillera Huayhuash, Peru.

On Torre dei Sabbioni (Marmarole, Dolomites) Alessandro Fiori, Pier Francesco Smaltini and Simone Corte Pause have made the first ascent of Magic Fox, a new multi-pitch rock climb in memory of Alberto Bonafede and Aldo Giustina who on 31/08/2011 tragically lost their lives during a mountain rescue operation on Mt....

Marco Bussu reports about the fourth edition of Zestos Psicobloc, the only deep water solo climbing competition in Sardinia that took place on Saturday, August 27, 2016 close to Santa Caterina di Pittinuri on the island's west coast.

In August 2016 French alpinists Max Bonniot and Didier Jourdain ascended the East Pillar and SE Ridge of Siula Grande in Peru via their new route 'Le bruit des glaçons' (ED / 1400m / 6c WI5).

A support fund has been launched to help the American alpinists Scott Adamson and Kyle Dempster, currently missing on Ogre II, Pakistan.

From 24 - 25 August 2016 the alpinists Tom Ballard and Marcin Tomaszewski made the first ascent of ‘Dirty Harry’ (VII, 1375m), a huge new rock climb up the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites.

The 'Crags for each season' project in collaboration with Vertical-Life.info continues with Stube, the new crag in Itay's Höhlensteintal / Val di Landro (Dolomites)

On Friday 26/08/2016 the 11th Arco Rock Legends celebration took place in Arco, Italy during the 30th Rock Master. Daniel Andrada won the Wild Country Rock Award, while the La Sportiva Competition Award went to Mina Markovič. The other nominees were Jakob Schubert, Laura Rogora, Janja Garnbret and Adam Ondra....