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La perla preziosa, new route on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
10/09/2008 - Alpinism
La perla preziosa, new route on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Nicola Tondini, Nicola Sartori and Michele Zandegiacomo have completed their new "La perla preziosa" - IX+ (7c+) - on the West Face of Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites, Val Badia).
James Pearson climbing interview
18/08/2008 - Climbing
James Pearson climbing interview
Interview with the English climber James Pearson, the man responsible for some of the hardest pyscholgical outings on gritstone and flashes of Font 8b boulder problems.
Trad Master first free ascent in Finland
09/07/2008 - Climbing
Trad Master first free ascent in Finland
At the start of June 31 year old Perttu Ollila made the first ascent of "Trad Master" at Pärkänvuori, describing it as "the best and hardest dihedral in Finland."
Take the long way home new route on Baffin Island, Canada
27/06/2008 - Alpinism
Take the long way home new route on Baffin Island, Canada
A German expedition including Robert Japser and Stefan Glowacz has carried out the first ascent of "Take the long way home" (700m, 21 pitches, A4 10-) on Baffin Island, Canada.
Nicolas Favresse - trad climbing in Wales and England
13/06/2008 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse - trad climbing in Wales and England
Nicolas Favresse and Sean Villanueva have just spent three weeks climbing in Wales, repeating a series of routes on Gogarth, Dinas Cromlech and Cloggy including John Redhead's masterpiece "Authentic desire" E7 6b.
Ice climbing in Japan
01/04/2008 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Japan
Albert Leichtfried, Markus Bendler and photographer Hermann Erber have just returned from an ice climbing trip to Hokkaido, Japan, during which they made the first ascent of Lector WI7 at Chiyoshibetu, before climbing in Raiden, Sounkyo and Abashiri.
Nicolas Favresse and sustainable climbing
10/03/2008 - Environment
Nicolas Favresse and sustainable climbing
Nicolas Favresse invites all to reflect about the human impact of our vertical activity, and launches his appeal for sustainable climbing.
Monte Cimo, Brenta new routes by Sartori & Tondini
05/03/2008 - Climbing
Monte Cimo, Brenta new routes by Sartori & Tondini
Nicola Sartori and Nicola Tondini have made the first ascents of three new multi-pitches on Monte Cimo (Brentino, Val d’Adige, Italy). These are Vola via (8 pitches, max 8a+), Gioco di equilibri (5 pitches, max 7c+) and Via di testa (6 pitches, max 8b+, 7c obb).
James Pearson climbs The Groove E10 7b at Cratcliffe Tor
05/02/2008 - Climbing
James Pearson climbs The Groove E10 7b at Cratcliffe Tor
James Pearson from Great Britain made the most of crisp winter conditions on 02/02/2008 to carry out the first ascent of The Groove E10 7b at the gritstone Cratcliffe Tor, Peak District.
Presles climbing petition against access problems
04/02/2008 - Climbing
Presles climbing petition against access problems
The VTNO is urging all climbers to sign an online petition to resolve access problems in Presles, France.
Siurana rock climbing, Spain
18/01/2008 - Climbing
Siurana rock climbing, Spain
Siurana in Spain: high in Catalonia close to Barcellona lies one of the most famous crags in the entire country, ideal as a winter climbing destination.
Golden Lunacy first ascent on Maujit Qaqarssuasia, Greenland
27/09/2007 - Alpinism
Golden Lunacy first ascent on Maujit Qaqarssuasia, Greenland
In August Polish mountaineers David Kaszlikowski and Eliza Kubarska made a first ascent of 'Golden Lunacy' (2000m UIAA VIII +, 7a+ max.) on Maujit Qaqarssuasia wall in the Torssakutak fjord, Greenland.
Bubu Bole repeats Mezzogiorno di fuoco in Sardinia
12/09/2007 - Climbing
Bubu Bole repeats Mezzogiorno di fuoco in Sardinia
On 23/08 Mauro Bubu Bole carried out the first repeat of 'Mezzogiorno di fuoco' (8b max, 7c obligatory, expo) on Punta Giradili, Sardinia.
Climbing in the Zillertal, Ewige Jagdgründe Austria
21/08/2007 - Climbing
Climbing in the Zillertal, Ewige Jagdgründe Austria
Rock climbing in the Zillertal - Austria's granite climbing Eldorado, just 1 hour from Innsbruck in the heart of the Tyrol.
Arwa Tower NE Face first ascent by Siegrist, Senf and Burdet
20/06/2007 - Alpinism
Arwa Tower NE Face first ascent by Siegrist, Senf and Burdet
On 07/06/2007 Stephan Siegrist, Thomas Senf and Denis Burdet carried out first ascent of Lightning Strike (VI M5 5.9 A3 1000m) up the NE Face of Arwa Tower (6352m), Garhwal Himalaya, India.
Dave Birkett E9 repeat at St Govan’s Head, Pembroke, Wales
12/06/2007 - Climbing
Dave Birkett E9 repeat at St Govan’s Head, Pembroke, Wales
On Tuesday 5th June Dave Birkett made the second ascent of The Brothers Karamazov E9 6c at St Govan’s Head in Pembroke, Wales.