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New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
19/07/2022 - Alpinism
New climbs on Lofoten Islands' Helvetestinden & Brasrastindan by Gerber Cucurell, Jordi Esteve
Catalan alpinists Gerber Cucurell and Jordi Esteve have explored new terrain on the on Lofoten Islands in Norway, adding the variation Rett Opp to the South Face of Helvetestinden, and making what is likely to be the first ascent of the North Face of Brasrastindan via their Nordside. Cucurell reports.
Simon Gietl completes rope-solo first ascent of stunning Dolomites Peitlerkofel NW Pillar Arête
17/07/2022 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl completes rope-solo first ascent of stunning Dolomites Peitlerkofel NW Pillar Arête
Last week Simon Gietl completed a new route up the Arête of the North-West Pillar of Peitlerkofel / Sass de Putia (2875m) in the Dolomites. The South Tyrolean mountaineer climbed alone and rope-solo and made one bivouac on the climb.
Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy
07/07/2022 - Alpinism
Stairway to Heaven in Val Baione (Valle Camonica), Italy
On Cima Bacchetta, at the foot of Italy’s Mount Concarena (Val Baione - Valle Camonica) Leonardo Gheza and Angelo Contessi have made the first ascent of Stairway to heaven. The new route is dedicated to Luca Ducoli.
Janja Garnbret wins 50th World Cup Medal at Villars Climbing World Cup
03/07/2022 - Competitions
Janja Garnbret wins 50th World Cup Medal at Villars Climbing World Cup
The second stage of the 2022 Lead World Cup was won last night in Villars, Switzerland, by Janja Garnbret and Homma Taisei. This is the Slovenian’s 50th World Cup medal.
James Pearson repeats Lexicon in England in smooth style
30/06/2022 - Climbing
James Pearson repeats Lexicon in England in smooth style
British rock climber James Pearson has made a swift repeat of Lexicon, the E11 at Pavey Ark first ascended by Neil Gresham in 2021. After making a bold 'flash' attempt, Pearson worked the route ground-up before repeating one of Britain’s hardest trad climbs in cold, wet conditions.
Wildfires burn Oliana in Spain
22/06/2022 - Environment
Wildfires burn Oliana in Spain
Wildfires raging across Spain have also burnt beneath Oliana, one of the most famous crags in the world.
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
20/06/2022 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla and Bellavista on Dolomites Tre Cime di Lavaredo
Federica Mingolla reports about her Thursday 16 June ascent, belayed by Niccolò Bartoli, of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (Dolomites), first ascended by Alexander Huber in 1999. Mingolla and Bartoli descended from where the route joins the classic Cassin due to poor conditions
Mark Thomas, Mike Turner are Thunderstruck on Kichatna Spire in Alaska
16/06/2022 - Alpinism
Mark Thomas, Mike Turner are Thunderstruck on Kichatna Spire in Alaska
British mountaineers Mark Thomas and Mike Turner have made the first ascent of Thunderstruck on the East Face of Kichatna Spire in Alaska. The stunning 1200m big wall was established after 12 days of hard and bold climbing.
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
15/06/2022 - Alpinism
Erebor on Arnplattenspitze in Wetterstein massif by Benedikt Hiebl, Barbara Vigl
Last summer Austrian climbers Benedikt Hiebl and Barbara Vigl made the first ascent of Erebor, an 11-pitch climb on the SE Face of Arnplattenspitze (2171m) in the Wetterstein massif. Vigl reports
Yannick Flohé fires Brixen Boulder World Cup 2022
13/06/2022 - Competitions
Yannick Flohé fires Brixen Boulder World Cup 2022
Yannick Flohé claimed his first World Cup podium last night after winning the fifth stage of the Boulder World Cup 2022 at Brixen, Italy. The German beat Britain’s Maximillian Milne and Japan’s Tomoa Narasaki.
European Cup Lead & Speed, the best photos and results from Arco, Italy
09/06/2022 - Competitions
European Cup Lead & Speed, the best photos and results from Arco, Italy
The results and the best photos of the first stages of the European Cup Lead & Speed, won respectively by Laura Rogora and Milan Preskar and by Franziska Ritter and Yaroslav Tkach.
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
06/06/2022 - Alpinism
Kichatna Spire Pace of Comfort climbed in Alaska by David Allfrey, Whit Magro, Graham Zimmerman
From 23 - 27 May 2022 David Allfrey, Whit Magro and Graham Zimmerman established a new alpine, big wall route on the Northwest Face of Kichatna Spire in the Alaska Range. They named the 950m climb 'The Pace of Comfort' and graded it VI 5.10, A3+, M6, 70° snow.
European Cup Lead & Speed at Arco / Live streaming today
04/06/2022 - Competitions
European Cup Lead & Speed at Arco / Live streaming today
Double appointment at Arco, Italy with the Lead & Speed ​​European Cup. The Speed ​​was won last night by Franziska Ritter and Yaroslav Tkach, while the Lead semifinals take place at 10:00 today, followed by the Lead finals at 16:30.
A help for Evgeny Kryvosheytsev in Ukraine
01/06/2022 - Events
A help for Evgeny Kryvosheytsev in Ukraine
Michael Pupeza, Anna Torretta and Stéphanie Maureau have launched a crowdfunding appeal to help Evgeny Kryvosheytsev, the talented climber and ice climber in difficulty due to the war in Ukraine.
Michaela Kiersch nails New Base Line at Magic Wood, Switzerland
30/05/2022 - Climbing
Michaela Kiersch nails New Base Line at Magic Wood, Switzerland
American rock climber Michaela Kiersch has repeated New Base Line, the 8B+ boulder problem at Magic Wood in Switzerland.
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
30/05/2022 - Alpinism
Remembering Simone Badier, the great French alpinist
Claude Gardien, historic editor-in-chief of the French magazine Vertical, remembers Simone Badier who passed away on 18 March 2022. Born in 1936 and as talented as she was discreet, she was one of the leading figures in women's climbing and mountaineering.

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