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Jesse Dufton and his extraordinary ascent of The Old Man of Hoy in Scotland
12/06/2019 - Interviews
Jesse Dufton and his extraordinary ascent of The Old Man of Hoy in Scotland
Interview with blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton who the famous trad climbing route The Old Man of Hoy off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. Guided by his climbing partner Molly Thompson, the achievement has been recognised by the Scottish parliament.
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
07/06/2019 - Alpinism
Five first ascents in Alaska by Simon Richardson and Mark Robson
Despite challenging conditions Simon Richardson and Mark Robson have made the first ascent of five hitherto unclimbed peaks in the Stikine Range in South-East Alaska, including Peak 7180, one of the highest unclimbed mountains in the region. Richardson reports.
Blind paraclimber Jesse Dufton climbs The Old Man of Hoy
05/06/2019 - Climbing
Blind paraclimber Jesse Dufton climbs The Old Man of Hoy
Blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton, guided by his climbing partner Molly Thompson, has repeated world famous trad climb The Old Man of Hoy off the Orkney Islands in Scotland. First ascended by in 1966 by Chris Bonington, Tom Patey and Rusty Baillie, this 6-pitch outing is a true symbol of...
Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China
04/06/2019 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini completes solo ascent of Lamo She in China
Italian mountaineer Tomas Franchini has successfully made a solo ascent of the hitherto unclimbed East Face of Lamo She, a 6070m peak in China.
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
01/06/2019 - Alpinism
Denali Cassin Ridge climbed by François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti, West Rib by Stefano Stradelli, Roger Bovard
Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have climbed the Cassin Ridge on Denali (McKinley) in Alaska; five days earlier the two Valle d'Aosta mountain guides had climbed to the summit vie the West Rib. Expedition members Stefano Stradelli and Roger Bovard also ascended the West Rib.
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Piz Morteratsch in Switzerland, East Face ski descent by Costa, Terraneo, Varchetti
Saro Costa reports about the first ski descent of the ENE Face of Piz Morteratsch (3752m) in the Bernina range in Switzerland, climbed and skied via the Zippert / Kohler route on 23/05/2019 together with Davide Terraneo and Mattia Varchetti.
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif
24/05/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif
Ezio Marlier reports about Mtbness, a new mixed climb up Aiguilles Marbrées (3535 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, first ascended with Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey and David Horwood.
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
21/05/2019 - Climbing
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her efforts to rebolt parts of Mingus, the 300m multi-pitch climb in the Verdon Gorge, France, first freed onsight by Lynn Hill in 1994 with difficulties up to 8a.
Dolorock 2019 in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites: interview with Christian Sordo
20/05/2019 - Interviews
Dolorock 2019 in Höhlensteintal, Dolomites: interview with Christian Sordo
Interview with Christian Sordo, mountain guide and one of the driving forces behind Dolorock, the international climbing meeting that will take place from 24 to 26 May 2019 in Höhlensteintal, close to the Tre Cime di Lavaredo / Drei Zinnen, Dolomites.
Val di Mello: agreement reached for contested path for the disabled
17/05/2019 - Environment
Val di Mello: agreement reached for contested path for the disabled
After months of controversy concerning a planned expansion in Val di Mello, Italy, of an existing path that would make it accessible to wheelchairs and the disabled, an agreement has now been reached to protect the pristine valley. The peaceful protest scheduled for Saturday 18th May has therefore be transformed...
Blind paraclimber Jesse Dufton masters British trad climbing
16/05/2019 - Climbing
Blind paraclimber Jesse Dufton masters British trad climbing
Blind British paraclimber Jesse Dufton has repeated the famous trad climb The Sloth at The Roaches in England. The ascent has been described by those who know as redefining the word 'impressive'.
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
13/05/2019 - Interviews
Matterhorn Carrel hut restrictions. Interview with Flavio Bich, Cervino guides president
Interview with the president of the Cervino mountain guides Flavio Bich, after the decision to restrict the places available in Capanna Carrel, the hut on the Italian side of the Matterhorn, and to make reservation obligatory in the summer months.
Piz Buin, Silvretta: Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti add new route to East Face
03/05/2019 - Alpinism
Piz Buin, Silvretta: Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti add new route to East Face
On 31/03/2019 Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti made the first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Piz Buin (3312m) in the Silvretta group of the Rhaetian Alps. Arosio reports
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)
Mezzalama Trophy 2019 / The hardest edition ever
28/04/2019 - Competitions
Mezzalama Trophy 2019 / The hardest edition ever
The most difficult Mezzlama ski mountaineering competition of all times was won on Sunday 28 April 2019 by the Italians Robert Antonioli, Michele Boscacci and Matteo Eydallin. France’s Lorna Bonnel and Axelle Mollaret and Italy’s Alba de Silvestro dominated the women’s race.
Mezzalama 2019 ski mountaineering marathon postponed to Sunday 28 April
Mezzalama 2019 ski mountaineering marathon postponed to Sunday 28 April
The Mezzalama Trophy 2019 has been postponed due to adverse weather conditions. The legendary ski mountaineering competition on Monte Rosa will now take place on Sunday 28 April.

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