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L'or du temps on Grand Capucin, Slovaks claim first free ascent
06/09/2017 - Alpinism
L'or du temps on Grand Capucin, Slovaks claim first free ascent
The report by 16-year-old Slovak climber Pavel Kratochvíl who on 27/08/2017 with Róbert Luby (21) and Martin Krasňanský (34) made the first free ascent of L'or du temps, the new route put up on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc, by Nina Caprez and Arnaud Petit.
Adam Ondra climbs Silence, world's first 9c at Flatanger in Norway
04/09/2017 - Interviews
Adam Ondra climbs Silence, world's first 9c at Flatanger in Norway
Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra who on 3 September 2017 at Flatanger in Norway made the first free ascent of his Project Hard, a sport climb which the 24-year-old has graded 9c. Should this be confirmed, then the 45m line checks in as the first 9c in the world....
Bouldering in Valle dell'Orco and the Orcoblocco climbing meeting
01/09/2017 - Climbing
Bouldering in Valle dell'Orco and the Orcoblocco climbing meeting
One day before the Orcoblocco bouldering meeting in Italy’s Valle dell’Orco Andrea Migliano introduces the valley in the Gran Paradiso National Park and in particular the new El Dorado sector with its 120 new boulder problems.
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
09/08/2017 - Climbing
The children of Fessura Kosterlitz: the legendary crack climb in Valle dell'Orco
A legend, a desire destined to remain a dream for most climbers: this is what the Kosterlitz crack in Valle dell'Orco represented to the Italian climbing scene in the ’70’s and ’80’s after having been first ascended in the early 1970’s by Scotland’s Mike Kosterlitz. The 2016 Nobel Prize in...
Bernd Zangerl climbs Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland
07/08/2017 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl climbs Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland
The video of Austrian climber Bernd Zangerl who, 489 days after a serious injury, has managed to make the first free ascent of Into the Sun in Murgtal, Switzerland. Graded 8c+, this route is one of the hardest trad climbs in the world.
Steve House mountain training workshop at Chamonix on 19 August
03/08/2017 - Events
Steve House mountain training workshop at Chamonix on 19 August
Five questions to American alpinist Steve House who, together with Scott Johnston, will run a Mountain Performance Workshop at St. Gervais close to Chamonix on 19 August 2017.
Don Quixote, three legs and one prothesis up the Marmolada South Face. By Siebe Vanhee
26/07/2017 - Alpinism
Don Quixote, three legs and one prothesis up the Marmolada South Face. By Siebe Vanhee
Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his repeat of Don Quixote up the Marmolada in the Dolomites together with paraclimber Frederik Leys. First climbed by Heinz Mariacher and Reinhard Schiestl in 1979, the route is considered a classic outing up the South Face.
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
25/07/2017 - Alpinism
Mountaineering in Bolivia: new climb in little known Cordillera Quimsa Cruz
Enrico Rosso reports about the June 2017 expedition he led to the Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz massif in Bolivia, where the rock climb 'Kamasa' (250m, 6b, A2) was added to the North Face of Gran Muralla (5200m).
Catherine Destivelle, climbing and alpinism there where it is dangerous to lean out
24/07/2017 - Alpinism
Catherine Destivelle, climbing and alpinism there where it is dangerous to lean out
A portrait and two videos of Catherine Destivelle, one the most talented climbers and alpinists of all times.
Katie Bono sets female Denali speed record
21/07/2017 - Interviews
Katie Bono sets female Denali speed record
Interview with American alpinist Katie Bono who on 13-14 June 2017 ascended and descended the West Buttress route on Denali (McKinley) in just 21 hours and 6 minutes. This is a female speed record and one of the fastest known times to date.
Red Bull X-Alps 2017: Maurer leads at Monte Baldo, Durogati forced to retire
06/07/2017 - Competitions
Red Bull X-Alps 2017: Maurer leads at Monte Baldo, Durogati forced to retire
Switzerland’s Christian Maurer continues his lonely lead and a massive flight has taken him to the Turnpoint at Monte Baldo (Italy). France’s Gaspard Petiot trails in second place, Austria’s Paul Guschlbauer is currently third. Unfortunately this morning Italy’s Aaron Durogati was forced to pull out of the race due to...
Mike Kosterlitz, Nobel Prize in Physics 2016, awarded Climbing Ambassador at the Arco climbing Oscars
27/06/2017 - Events
Mike Kosterlitz, Nobel Prize in Physics 2016, awarded Climbing Ambassador at the Arco climbing Oscars
On 25 August 2017 in Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) the Climbing Ambassador by Dryarn® di Aquafil 2017 prize will be awarded to Mike Kosterlitz, Nobel Prize in Physics 2016 and legends name in the climbing world.
Adam Ondra climbing towards the world’s first 9c
26/06/2017 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbing towards the world’s first 9c
Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra who at Flatanger in Norway is currently attempting a route he believes might merit a 9c grade, meaning it would be the hardest sport climb in the world.
Aaron Durogati and the unmissable, ever-changing air of Red Bull X-Alps 2017
20/06/2017 - Interviews
Aaron Durogati and the unmissable, ever-changing air of Red Bull X-Alps 2017
Interview with paragliding champion Aaron Durogati who on 2 July will lift off from Salzburg in Austria and take part in his third Red Bull X-Alps, the 1100km race by paraglider or on foot across the Alps all the way to Monte Carlo.
Why Alex Honnold's Free Solo of El Cap Scared Me. By Tommy Caldwell
16/06/2017 - Climbing
Why Alex Honnold's Free Solo of El Cap Scared Me. By Tommy Caldwell
We have kindly received permission by both Outside Magazine and Tommy Caldwell to republish Caldwell's article about Alex Honnold and his incredible first free solo of El Capitan (Yosemite Valley, USA) via the climb Freerider.
Rivoluzione, Mauro Dell’Antonia claims Lumignano's first 9a
14/06/2017 - Climbing
Rivoluzione, Mauro Dell’Antonia claims Lumignano's first 9a
Sport climbing: the report by Mauro Dell'Antonia who last May at Lumignano (Italy) made the first ascent of ‘Rivoluzione’ . The 51-year-old Venetian climber has suggested 9a and, should this be confirmed, then this would make the climb the hardest at this historical crag.

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