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A Winter's Tale / Tre Cime di Lavaredo trilogy by Christoph Hainz and Simon Kehrer
28/12/2016 - Alpinism
A Winter's Tale / Tre Cime di Lavaredo trilogy by Christoph Hainz and Simon Kehrer
On 23 December 2016 on the Drei Zinnen / Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites) Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz completed a beautiful winter trilogy by climbing Via Comici-Dimai up Cima Grande (in 2:30), Via Cassin up Cima Ovest (in 3:25), and Spigolo Giallo up Cima Piccola (in 1:28). The South...
New ice and mixed climb up Cima Paganella, Brenta Dolomites
22/12/2016 - Alpinism
New ice and mixed climb up Cima Paganella, Brenta Dolomites
On 20/12/2016 Simone Elmi, Davide Carton and Davide Ortolani made the first ascent of 'Lato B' (M4, WI4, II, R3, 100m), a new mixed climb up Cima della Paganella, Brenta Dolomites.
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
19/12/2016 - Climbing
Manolo, climbing and Il Mattino dei Maghi: first repeat in 35 years
On 7 December 2016 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla, belayed by Daniele Lira shortly before his 59th birthday, made the second ascent and first repeat of Il Mattino dei Maghi, the legendary climb first ascended in 1981 by Manolo at the crag Totoga (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites) and, until now, unrepeated.
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Thomas Huber: a ground fall, Latok I and the gratitude for being alive
German alpinist Thomas Huber recounts the last three months that, in his words, 'have left a profound mark on my life.' Starting with a 16m ground fall, followed by the dream of climbing Latok I in the Karakorum and the nightmare rescue operation for American mountaineers Scott Adamson and Kyle...
Highline on Heligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
29/11/2016 - Alpinism
Highline on Heligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
Friedrich Kühne walks a new 132m highline on Heligkreuzkofel / Sass dla Crusc in the Dolomites.
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
23/11/2016 - Interviews
Alpinism on Pizzo Badile: interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after Amore di Vetro
Interview with Marcel Schenk and Simon Gietl after the first ascent of 'Amore di Vetro' (800m, M5, R) a new ice and mixed climb up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile (3303m) Alps.
Via RoMa, new climb on Grandes Jorasses
17/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via RoMa, new climb on Grandes Jorasses
From 26 - 28 August 2016 the Russian mountaineers Maxim Foygel and Roman Gorodischenskiy made the first ascent of 'Via RoMa' (ED 1350m 6a A2), a new route on the East Face of Pointe Walker (4208m), Grandes Jorasses (Alps). The new route shares the start of Pilastro Rosso and finishes...
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
17/11/2016 - Alpinism
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
Paolo Marazzi talks about his 'sailing and climbing' experience in Greenland’s Mythic Circle. The result: two new 800m climbs and above all though ‘an absolutely unique adventure in the North Sea.’
World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi
14/11/2016 - Competitions
World Youth Climbing Championships: Bouldering brings second gold for Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes & Ashima Shiraishi
Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes and Ashima Shiraishi all followed up their Lead victories at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou by winning Gold in the Bouldering discipline. They were joined by Borna Cujic, Keita Dohi and Nathan Martin.
Ralf Grabowski Walks the plank in Germany’s Kochel
11/11/2016 - Climbing
Ralf Grabowski Walks the plank in Germany’s Kochel
The video of Ralf Grabowski making the first ascent of 'walk the plank' 9a at Rockywand, Kochel, Germany.
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
04/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
In October 2015 on Torre Argentina in the Vallaccia group (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) the brothers Enrico Geremia and Nicolò Geremia made the first ascent of 'Via dei Balotini', a new rock climb to the right of Via Maffei - Frizzera.
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
27/10/2016 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino
Enrico Bonino talks about a modern interpretation of the Salluard climbs (plus variations) up the West Face of Aguille d'Entrèves in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was climbed in two stages, on 20/10/2016 by Enrico Bonino and Andrea Racchelli, and completed on 22/10/2016 by Bonino together with Ilaria Sonatore...
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
Black Pearl, new Riegler rock climb in Val Lunga, Dolomites
Florian Riegler reports about the first ascent of Black Pearl (8a+, 170m) a new multi-pitch route he first ascended with his brother Martin Riegler in Val Lunga, Dolomites.
Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world’s first 9A boulder problem
24/10/2016 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world’s first 9A boulder problem
Finnish rock climber Nalle Hukkataival has made the first ascent of Burden of Dreams, his project at Lappnor in Finland, for which he has now suggested 9A. Should the grade be confirmed, this would be the first boulder problem to breach this difficulty worldwide.