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La prima volta, new icefall at Fusine Laghi, Tarvisio
17/03/2009 - Alpinism
La prima volta, new icefall at Fusine Laghi, Tarvisio
On 31/01/2009 Roberto Misson and Luca Chiarcos carried out the first ascent of "La prima volta" (60m, II 3+ M5+) at Fusine Laghi (Tarvisio).
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
13/03/2009 - Climbing
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
Beat Kammerlander has made the first ascent of the trad route "Prinzip Hoffnung" (8b/8b+, E9-E10) at the Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg, Austria.
Scotland winter climbing update
13/03/2009 - Alpinism
Scotland winter climbing update
Andy Turner and Tony Stone have carried out the first winter ascent of Sassenach on Ben Nevis and Ueli Steck has repeated The Secret. Ian Parnell and Andy Turner then carry out the first ascent of Bruised Violet (VIII,7,8,8,8,7) on Beinn Eighe.
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
12/03/2009 - Events
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist...
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
12/03/2009 - Climbing
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have carried out the first ascent of "Fata Morgana" (F7c, 800m) up the S Face of Jebel Misht, Oman.
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
06/03/2009 - Alpinism
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli travelled to Norway in February and carried out three important first ascents, including Fosslimonster M8+, WI6+, E5, 800m height difference, ca.1000m length at Aurland.
Łukasz Dudek repeats Martin Krpan 9a at Misja Pec, Slovenia
04/03/2009 - Climbing
Łukasz Dudek repeats Martin Krpan 9a at Misja Pec, Slovenia
Lukasz Dudek has repeated Martin Krpan 9a at Misja Pec close to the village Osp in Slovenia.
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Luca Vuerich has carried out the first ski descent of the South Face of Jof di Montasio 2753m (Julian Alps).
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
02/03/2009 - Climbing
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
Tyler Landman from England has made a series of hard repeats in Fontainebleau, France, including the second ascent of Satan i Helvete assis, the FB8C.
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
26/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
At Oliana, Spain, Adam Ondra repeats Papichulo 9a+ and Daila Ojeda makes the first ascent of China Crisis 8b+. Margalef refuge owner Jordi Pou warns that irrespective behaviour may result in sectors being banned.
Jerry Moffatt interview
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
Will Gadd ice climbing fest in Canada
25/02/2009 - Alpinism
Will Gadd ice climbing fest in Canada
Two massive first ascents in Canada: The Jimmy Skid Rig (WI5 M12, 300m, Will Gadd, Will Meinen and Brandon Pullan) and Hunlen Falls (5.9 A2, 370m, Will Gadd & EJ Plimley).
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar
24/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar
Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef while 13 year old Geoffray De Flaugergues from France has repeated El templo del cafe 8c+/9a at Alquezar.

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