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Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
23/04/2016 - Alpinism
Chamlang Expedition 2016, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli acclimatised
After a few nights spent at about 5700m, the Italian alpinists Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli have concluded their acclimatization prior to attempting the unclimbed north face of Chamlang Peak (7319 m), Nepal. Conditions are not ideal conditions and the reconnaissance phase is longer than expected.
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
20/04/2016 - Climbing
Pace in Siria on Dain di Pietramurata, new rock climb in Italy's Sarca valley
The report by Marco Bozzetta who, together with Francesco Salvaterra, made the first ascent of Pace in Siria (7a+, 6c+ obligatory, 230m), a new multi-pitch rock climb up the SE Face of Dain di Pietramurata, Valle del Sarca, Italy.
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
19/04/2016 - Book-press
Joe Tasker, alpinism and its Savage arena
A book for dreamers: Savage arena by Joe Tasker. A story about a form of alpinism that has perhaps disappeared but which has certainly left its mark in history. The book review by Ivo Ferrari.
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
15/04/2016 - Book-press
Beyond the Face, characters of climbing by Heiko Wilhelm
Interview with Austrian climbing team coach Heiko Wilhelm about his book "Beyond the Face, characters of climbing", a mine of information that retraces 30 years of competition climbing through the eyes of 39 athletes who have helped shape this young sport.
Kalymnos sports climbing rebolting project completed in Greece
12/04/2016 - Climbing
Kalymnos sports climbing rebolting project completed in Greece
The rebolting project of a massive number of sport climbs on the Greek islands of Kalymnos and Telendos has been completed.
Patagonia: Riders on the Storm repeated by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and Thomas Senf
02/03/2016 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Riders on the Storm repeated by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and Thomas Senf
Over a 15-day period from 16 January to 20 February Ines Papert, Mayan Smith-Gobat and Thomas Senf repeated Riders on the Storm (7c+, A2, 1300m), the iconic multi-pitch rock climb up the Central Tower of the Torres del Paine in Patagonia. Although some sections were climbed with the use of...
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
24/02/2016 - Alpinism
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
In July 2015 British alpinists Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman made the first ascent Link Sar West, a 6,938m summit in Pakistan’s Karakoram. The two climbed the Northwest Face via their route Fever Pitch.
Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report
27/01/2016 - Events
Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report
The report about the 26th edition of Ice Climbing Ecrins, the festival that took place from 14 - 17 January at l’Argentière-La Bessée, France.
Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia
22/01/2016 - Alpinism
Colin Haley makes first solo climb of Torre Egger and Punta Herron in Patagonia
Interview with American alpinist Colin Haley who has just carried out the first solo ascent of Torre Egger (2850m) and Punta Herron (2750m) in Patagonia, requiring 16.5 hours for the ascent and 9 for the descent.
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
11/01/2016 - Alpinism
Ortler Trinitas: Riegler brothers complete their South Tyrolean trilogy
Florian Riegler reports about his ascent of Trinitas (WI4, M5, 1000m), a probable new route up the NW Face of Ortler climbed on 27/12/2015 together with his brother Martin Riegler. With this ascent the two South Tyrolean alpinists have completed the trilogy of new routes that includes the summits of...
Alex Honnold and Stacy Bare in Angola
18/12/2015 - Climbing
Alex Honnold and Stacy Bare in Angola
The journey of American rock climber Alex Honnold to Angola, to discover the country’s potential for rock climbing and also to follow up the Honnold Foundation pilot program of home solar systems for the local population. His travel companion Stacy Bare returned to see the progress made by the landmine clearance...
Will Gadd and Sarah Hueniken tame The Mustang at Vail, Colorado
17/12/2015 - Alpinism
Will Gadd and Sarah Hueniken tame The Mustang at Vail, Colorado
The Canadian alpinists Will Gadd and Sarah Hueniken have repeated The Mustang P-51 (M14-) at The Fang Amphitheater, Vail, Colorado, USA.
Jacopo Larcher repeats Psychogramm 8b+ trad in Austria
16/12/2015 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Psychogramm 8b+ trad in Austria
At the Bürser Platte in Voralberg, Austria, Jacopo Larcher has repeated Psychogramm, the trad climb graded 8b+.
Cerro San Lorenzo new Slovenian climbs in Patagonia
15/12/2015 - Alpinism
Cerro San Lorenzo new Slovenian climbs in Patagonia
The trip report of the Slovenian climbing expedition to Patagonia, during which the alpinists Dejan Koren, Boštjan Mikuz, Rok Kurinčič, Domen Petrovcic and Domen Kastelic established three new routes: Exit, Direct Route and No Fiesta (ED+, 1600m), the latter established in 40 hours up the East Face of Cerro San...
Gabriele Moroni claims Maestri di Vita at Metanodotto
11/12/2015 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni claims Maestri di Vita at Metanodotto
Italian rock climber Gabriele Moroni has made the first ascent of Maestri di Vita, Life Masters, a difficult and dangerous trad climb at Metanodotto in the Aosta Valley.
Jimmy Chin: adventure in a photograph
11/12/2015 - Interviews
Jimmy Chin: adventure in a photograph
Interview with American alpinist, photographer and filmmaker Jimmy Chin. By Alessandra Raggio

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