4011 News found

The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist...

Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have carried out the first ascent of "Fata Morgana" (F7c, 800m) up the S Face of Jebel Misht, Oman.

With reference to the latest ascents by Robert Jasper in Norway, the Norsk Tindeklub (Norwegian Alpine Club) has now published an official statement guidelining climbing ethics in Norway. The German climber also provides his point of view.

From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.

Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...

Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli travelled to Norway in February and carried out three important first ascents, including Fosslimonster M8+, WI6+, E5, 800m height difference, ca.1000m length at Aurland.

Luca Vuerich has carried out the first ski descent of the South Face of Jof di Montasio 2753m (Julian Alps).

On 28 February the Plenary Assembly of the IFSC - International Federation of Sport Climbing elected Arco (Trentino, Italy) as the seat of the World Championship 2011. The town in the Garda Trentino region beat the other two candidates, Paris and Moscow.

Tyler Landman from England has made a series of hard repeats in Fontainebleau, France, including the second ascent of Satan i Helvete assis, the FB8C.

From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.

Enrico Bonino introduces 4 icefalls which rarely come into condition and which have reformed during this exceptional winter in Valle d'Aosta, Italy. Located between Valsavarenche and Valtournenche, they are off the beaten track from the more famous areas around Cogne.

Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.

Two massive first ascents in Canada: The Jimmy Skid Rig (WI5 M12, 300m, Will Gadd, Will Meinen and Brandon Pullan) and Hunlen Falls (5.9 A2, 370m, Will Gadd & EJ Plimley).

Over the last 10 days 6 teams have repeated "Buon compleanno", the beatuiful drip in Gole di Gondo (Ossola, Switzerland) which last came into conditions 8 years ago.

James Pearson has made a fast first repeat of the gritstone testpiece Gerty Berwick at Ilkley Quarry, England.

In January Kurt Astner and Emanuele Ciulli made the first ascent of Leben ist jetzt (200m, IV/M7+/ice 80/90°), a modern 5 pitch mixed route in Val di Tures (Riva di Tures, Dolomites).