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Arco Rock Legends 2010, the nominations
22/06/2010 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2010, the nominations
All the nominations for the V edition of the Arco Rock Legends which will take place on Saturday 17 July 2010 in Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) during the XXIV Rock Master. This year the legendary competition has been brought forward from September to July as it serves as the pre-event...
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
21/06/2010 - Alpinism
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
In May the Italian 'Cordillera 2010' expedition comprised of Andrea Di Donato, Roberto Iannilli and Ivo Scappatura established "El sueño de los excluidos" (1440m, max VII/VII+, A2) on the SE Face of Nevado Shaqsha (Quebrada Rurec Valley, Huantsàn, Cordillera Blanca, Perù). During the same time period Luca D’Andrea and Massimo...
Rock climbing in Squamish, Canada
18/06/2010 - Climbing
Rock climbing in Squamish, Canada
Millie Evans introduces the delights of rock climbing in Squamish, Canada with plenty of hands-on advice and three climbs on Stawamus Chief.
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
Grivel - Chabod, Aig. Blanche de Peuterey, ski descent
On 04/06/2010 Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli skied the North Face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) via the Grivel - Chabod route. The first and only ski descent was carried out in 1980 by Stefano De Benedetti.
Wild Country, new route on Telendos, Kalymnos
09/06/2010 - Climbing
Wild Country, new route on Telendos, Kalymnos
Urs Odermatt and Peter Keller have carried out the first ascent of Wild Country (6a, 265m) on the island of Telendos, opposite Kalymnos in Greece.
Rock Junior, the future of climbing at Arco
06/06/2010 - Competitions
Rock Junior, the future of climbing at Arco
More than 500 young athletes aged 5 -13 from 20 different countries made the ninth edition of the Rock Junior a success. Chris Sharma, one of the greatest climbers of all times, paid homage to the world's biggest youth climbing event.
Il volo di Pegasus, new route on Monte Monaco, Sicily
04/06/2010 - Climbing
Il volo di Pegasus, new route on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Reinhard Ranner have carried out the first ascent of Il volo di Pegasus (260m, 7a) on Monte Monaco, San Vito lo Capo, Sicily.
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
04/06/2010 - Alpinism
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
On 22 May 2010 Sergio De Leo, Michel Coranotte, Marcello Sanguineti and Marco Appino carried out the first ascent of "Plein Sud" (900m, VI, WI4+/5R, M6+), a new route up the incredible wild South Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc).
Arctic Monkeys, British team forges new big wall on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island
03/06/2010 - Alpinism
Arctic Monkeys, British team forges new big wall on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island
British climbers Mike 'Twid' Turner, Stuart McAleese and Mark Thomas have established their new route Arctic Monkeys (VI A4 V+ 1400m) on Sail Peaks, Baffin Island. Interview with Mike Turner about the ascent.
Monte Gallo new route above Palermo, Sicily
01/06/2010 - Climbing
Monte Gallo new route above Palermo, Sicily
Vento d’estate (290m, 6c), new route on Monte Gallo above Palermo first ascended by Max Flaccavento and Giorgio Iurato.
Monte Brento new 8b multi-pitch climb by David Lama and Jorg Verhoeven
31/05/2010 - Climbing
Monte Brento new 8b multi-pitch climb by David Lama and Jorg Verhoeven
David Lama from Austria and Jorg Verhoeven from the Netherlands have carried out the first free ascent of their "Brento Centro" 8b on Monte Brento, Valle del Sarca (Arco), Italy.
Appeal by Salavat Rakhmetov for his daughter Zaila
28/05/2010 - Climbing
Appeal by Salavat Rakhmetov for his daughter Zaila
Following a serious accident to his daughter Zaila, the Russian climber Salavat Rakhmetov has launched an appeal to the entire climbing community.
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition which on 24/12/1986 reached the West Summit...
Himalayan helicopter rescues
25/05/2010 - Alpinism
Himalayan helicopter rescues
Interview with Gerold Biner, operations manager of Air Zermatt, after the recent helicopter rescue missions in the Himalaya.
Everest, ascents from Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner to Silvio Mondinelli, Abele Blanc and Simone Moro
24/05/2010 - Alpinism
Everest, ascents from Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner to Silvio Mondinelli, Abele Blanc and Simone Moro
On 23 May Silvio Mondinelli, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Abele Blanc, Michele Enzio and Marco Camandona reached the summit of Everest from Tibet. On 22 May Simone Moro reached the summit, once again with the use of supplementary oxygen.

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