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Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
17/06/2016 - Climbing
Horror Vacui, new multi-pitch rock climb up Monte Cimo by Rolando Larcher
Rolando Larcher together with a series of different climbing partners has made the first ascent of Horror Vacui (8b+ max, 7b+ obl.) a new multi-pitch rock climb up the Scoglio dei Ciclopi face on Monte Cimo (Val d'Adige, Italy). As the name suggests, the line is a huge outing through...
Malaysia / new multi-pitch climb on Tioman island by Jonas Wallin and David Kaszlikowski
20/05/2016 - Climbing
Malaysia / new multi-pitch climb on Tioman island by Jonas Wallin and David Kaszlikowski
In April 2016 Jonas Wallin from Sweden and David Kaszlikowski from Poland established Fever Dreams (7c max, 9 pitches) on the previously unclimbed Mumbar cliff in the Dragon Horns massif on Tioman island, Malaysia. To access the mountain team had to find and cut new trail in the jungle.
Matterhorn East Face ski descent: in the right place at the right time
Matterhorn East Face ski descent: in the right place at the right time
Giulia Monego, Liv Sansoz, Lorraine Huber and Melissa Presslaber and their ski descent down the East Face of the Matterhorn. Giulia Monego reports.
Traumpfeiler, the pillar of dreams above Val Gardena with Stefan Stuflesser and Filip Schenk
29/04/2016 - Climbing
Traumpfeiler, the pillar of dreams above Val Gardena with Stefan Stuflesser and Filip Schenk
Climbing video: Stefan Stuflesser and Filip Schenk repeat Traumpfeiler, the famous multi-pitch sports climb at Cansla in the Dolomites.
Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island
28/04/2016 - Alpinism
Haywire, the short film by Cheyne Lempe big wall climbing on Baffin Island
Ben Lepesant reviews Haywire, the short film shot and directed by American alpinist Cheyne Lempe who in May 2015, together with Dave Allfrey, forged a worrying new climb called Deconstructing Jenga (VI, 5.9+, A3+) up Great Cross Pillar on Baffin Island, Canada.
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
18/04/2016 - Climbing
Fabian Buhl makes winter Wetterbock ascent
From 17 - 19 March 2016 German climber Fabian Buhl made a solo ascent of Wetterbock, a 10-pitch 8c freed in 2014 by Alexander Huber up the Wetterbockwand, Göll East Face, Berchtesgaden Alps, Austria.
Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Patagonia: the glaciers 100 years on
15/04/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, Cerro Torre and Patagonia: the glaciers 100 years on
The expedition in Patagonia led by Italian photographer Fabiano Ventura to document the effects of over 100 years of climate change as part of multi-year project "On the trails of the glaciers" has taken photos of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre and compared them to those taken by Alberto Maria...
Kevin Jorgeson: from rock climbing to migrant crisis humanitarian aid
15/03/2016 - Interviews
Kevin Jorgeson: from rock climbing to migrant crisis humanitarian aid
Interview with American climber Kevin Jorgeson, famous for his first free ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite (together with Tommy Caldwell in January 2015), who is about to embark on a two week trip to the Greek island of Lesbos together with his fiancée Jacqui Becker....
Torres del Paine National Park, first repeat photographs of Patagonia's glaciers
09/03/2016 - Environment
Torres del Paine National Park, first repeat photographs of Patagonia's glaciers
Italian photographer Fabiano Ventura is currently in the Torres del Paine National Park in Chile, Patagonia. The expedition he is leading plans to photograph the exact same locations as those taken by Alberto Maria De Agostini as part of multi-year project "On the trails of the glaciers" in order to...
Patagonia: Riders on the Storm repeated by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and Thomas Senf
02/03/2016 - Alpinism
Patagonia: Riders on the Storm repeated by Mayan Smith-Gobat, Ines Papert and Thomas Senf
Over a 15-day period from 16 January to 20 February Ines Papert, Mayan Smith-Gobat and Thomas Senf repeated Riders on the Storm (7c+, A2, 1300m), the iconic multi-pitch rock climb up the Central Tower of the Torres del Paine in Patagonia. Although some sections were climbed with the use of...
Valley of Giants, a Bouldering Odyssey in the Sultanate of Oman
28/02/2016 - Climbing
Valley of Giants, a Bouldering Odyssey in the Sultanate of Oman
The video of Dan Bates, Read Macadam and Philippe Ribière bouldering and climbing in Sultanate of Oman.
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
25/02/2016 - Climbing
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of "El lobo del desierto", a new rock climb up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos, the massive towers above Monterrey in Mexico. Established over 5 days and freed by the Italians, the route is 12...
Die Leiden des Jungen Werthers, new Dolomites rock climb up Punta del Pin
12/02/2016 - Alpinism
Die Leiden des Jungen Werthers, new Dolomites rock climb up Punta del Pin
During the summer 2015 Ulrich Viertler and Raffaele Sebastiani made the first ascent of "Die Leiden des Jurgen Werther" (250m, VIII+/IX- , R3, III:EX), a new alpine trad climb up Punta del Pin, Prags Dolomites.
Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior
05/02/2016 - Climbing
Oman sport climbing gems discovered by Petit, Macadam, Ruscior
The climbing report by French climber Arnaud Petit who in January 2016, together with Read Macadam and Alex Ruscior, established a host of new sport climbs in the Valley of Giants and Wadi Bani Khalid in Oman, before repeating routes at Hadash and on Jebel Misht.
Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report
27/01/2016 - Events
Ice Climbing Ecrins 2016 festival report
The report about the 26th edition of Ice Climbing Ecrins, the festival that took place from 14 - 17 January at l’Argentière-La Bessée, France.
Silvio Reffo, the 9a climbing physiotherapist
20/01/2016 - Interviews
Silvio Reffo, the 9a climbing physiotherapist
Interview with Italian rock climber Silvio Reffo who at Misja Pec in Slovenia sent his 10th 9a sports climb.