361 News found

Ivo Ferrari and climbing trip back in time up Hellzapoppin', one of the most beautiful climbs in the Mediterranean, first ascended in 1977 by Gianni Battimelli, Fabrizio Antonioli, Paul Bellotti, Giorgio Mallucci and Cristiano Delisi.

Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.

On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).

The report by Matteo della Bordella about his recent free ascent, together with David Bacci, of Freerider, the famous climb freed by Alexander and Thomas Huber on El Capitan, Yosemite.

Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...

In August 2012 Dutch climbers Bas van der Smeede, Elly van der Plas, Bas Visscher, Vincent van Beek and Saskia van der Smeede established Poco Loco, a new route up the previously unclimbed North Face of Puscanturpa Este (5410m), Andes, Peru. The report by Bas van der Smeede.

On 16 September Giangi Angeloni and Daniele Calegari made the first free ascent of A piede libero (7c+, 7a obl., 280m), the new route they established between 2009 and 2012 up Corna delle Quattro Matte (Presolana massif), Italy.

In early September Jason Kruk and Josh Lavigne climbed the North Face of Mt Alberta. In doing so they repeated the House - Anderson route to circa 3/4 height and then continued up new terrain (WI5, M7+++, 1000m, 06-09/09/2012). During the climb they discovered a magnificent, enormous cave.

On 18 September Spanish ski mountaineer and sky runner Kilian Jornet Burgada ascended from Courmayeur to the summit of Mont Blanc via the famous Innominata Ridge (1000m, D+, V+, 60º) in 6 hours and 17 minutes. The Spaniard then raced down to Chamonix in a total time of 8 hours...

Between 29 and 30 August 2012 Roberto Iannilli and Luca D'Andrea made the first ascent of Compagni dai campi e dalle officine (330m, EX up to VI-, A4) on the East Face of  Corno Grande, Vetta Occidentale, Gran Sasso, Italy.

This August the Slovak climbers Dodo Kopold and Michal Sabovcik forged a new line up the NW Face of Great Trango Tower (6286m), Karakorum. Their "Out of Reality" ends on the shoulder circa 400m below the summit.

Stephan Siegrist, Thomas Senf and Ralf Weber have successfully climbed Cerro Stanhardt, the northermost summit of Patagonia's Cerro Torre group, in winter and in alpine style via the classic Exocet route.

Ines Papert, Jon Walsh and Joshua Lavigne have established Sensory Overload (1200m, 5.11+, A1) up Mount Asgard, Baffin Island.

On 30 July at 16:00 David Lama, Peter Ortner and Corey Rich reached the summit of Trango Tower in the Karakorum via the route Eternal Flame.

Kyle Dempster, Hayden Kennedy and Urban Novak have made the first ascent of a new route up the virgin East Face of K7 (Karakorum, Pakistan).

Mayan Smith-Gobat, together with David Falt, has made the third free ascent of Donnafugata on Torre Trieste, Civetta, Dolomites. 750m, 8a in a ground-up, in a 32 hour single push with no bivy gear. Falt provides the report.