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Sergey Nefedov frees climbs on Mount Morcheka, Crimea
01/06/2012 - Climbing
Sergey Nefedov frees climbs on Mount Morcheka, Crimea
Sergey Nefedov and partners have freed a number of old routes up Mount Morcheka in the Crimea mountain range in the Ukraine.
Everest like an amusement park, Simone Moro abandons Everest and Lhotse attempt
24/05/2012 - Interviews
Everest like an amusement park, Simone Moro abandons Everest and Lhotse attempt
Interview with Simone Moro who descended to Everst Base Camp today and abandoned his project of climbing Everest and then Lhotse without supplementary oxygen due to the massive crowds on the mountain (more than 200 are currently attempting to reach its summit) and the dangers association with this overcrowding.
Bavella 2012, two new rock climbs in Corsica by Giupponi, Larcher, Oviglia and Sartori
21/05/2012 - Climbing
Bavella 2012, two new rock climbs in Corsica by Giupponi, Larcher, Oviglia and Sartori
At the start of May 2012 in Corsica's Bavella massif the Italians Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia made the first ascent of Vecchia Felpa on Punta U Peru (190m, 7c max /RS2/I) while Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori made the firts ascent of Tafunata Galattica up the Contrafforti di...
Daniel Woods no Mission Impossible 9a
10/05/2012 - Climbing
Daniel Woods no Mission Impossible 9a
Daniel Woods has made the first ascent of Mission Impossible 9a at Clear Creek Canyon in Colorado, USA.
Melloblocco, a passionate battle
08/05/2012 - Events
Melloblocco, a passionate battle
Sun, rain, boulder problems and parties for 2200 people during the ninth edition of Melloblocco 2012. Our final report of the world's most important bouldering meeting which took place in Val Masino - Val di Mello from 3 to 6 May.
Melloblocco 2012 and the desire to be there
06/05/2012 - Events
Melloblocco 2012 and the desire to be there
Sunday 6 May 2012. The final day of the 9th Melloblocco ended with some magic by Russian Alexey Rubtsov who managed to send, in the rain, the problem Ombre Multidimensionali. 2200 climbers took part in the event. The competition was won by Shauna Coxsey, Michele Caminati, Anthony Gullsten and Alexey...
Melloblocco 2012 and the desire to be there
06/05/2012 - Events
Melloblocco 2012 and the desire to be there
Sunday 6 May 2012. The final day of the 9th Melloblocco ended with some magic by Russian Alexey Rubtsov who managed to send, in the rain, the problem Ombre Multidimensionali. 2200 climbers took part in the event. The competition was won by Shauna Coxsey, Michele Caminati, Anthony Gullsten and Alexey...
Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
22/03/2012 - Alpinism
Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
From 25 - 27 January 2012 Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent (and first on-sight) of Via Cembridge (550m, 7b+ (6c obligatory) up Cima Margherita, Brenta Dolomites, Italy.
Loska Stena, new route by David Lama and Peter Ortner in Slovenia
13/03/2012 - Alpinism
Loska Stena, new route by David Lama and Peter Ortner in Slovenia
From 25 - 27 February 2012 David Lama and Peter Ortner established a demanding new route up the North Face of Loska Stena in Slovenia.
Jim Bridwell, his Cerro Torre point of view
13/03/2012 - Alpinism
Jim Bridwell, his Cerro Torre point of view
The thoughts of American alpinist Jim Bridwell about the bolt chopping on the Compressor Route, Cerro Torre, Patagonia
The essence of bouldering at Utby in Sweden
24/02/2012 - Climbing
The essence of bouldering at Utby in Sweden
Stella Plantin and Hanne Riise on the boulder problem Sockerbiten at Utby in Sweden.
David Lama - interview after the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
07/02/2012 - Interviews
David Lama - interview after the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre
Interview with Austrian alpinist David Lama after the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, carried out on 20 and 21 January 2012 with Peter Ortner.
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
23/01/2012 - Alpinism
David Lama frees the Compressor route… while Kruk & Kennedy's bolt chopping is hotly debated
Yesterday 22/01/2012 David Lama made the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia. The news has been confirmed by David Lama's team. There are no further details but this update will certainly add fuel to the controversy which has followed the bolt chopping carried out recently...
Jacopo Larcher and the 8b+ flash at Siurana
22/01/2012 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher and the 8b+ flash at Siurana
At Siurana in Spain Jacopo Larcher from Italy has flashed the climb Kale Borroka 8b+. His story.
Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
20/01/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat in winter, the route upwards for Moro and Urubko
News from Nanga Parbat: Simone Moro and Denis Urubko continue to explore their hopes and the mountain itself. Yesterday they ventured to beyond 5800m to reach the base of the couloir which they will attempt to climb via their (new) route to the summit.
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
14/01/2012 - Alpinism
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
On 22,23,24 December 2011 the Italian Mountain Guide Andrea Di Donato and the alpinist from Chile Andres Zegers ascended the South Face of Aconcagua (6962m, Andes, Argentina), establishing a probable 800m new start variation to the Direct French route.