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Papilio on Sass de Stria, Dolomites, climbed by Anna & Michal Coubal
06/09/2021 - Alpinism
Papilio on Sass de Stria, Dolomites, climbed by Anna & Michal Coubal
Czech mountaineer Michal Coubal reports about his 4 August first ascent with his daughter Anna Coubalová of Papilio (VII+, 235m) up the SE Face of Sass de Stria (2477m) above Passo Valparola in the Dolomites.
Greenland Siren Tower, report #1 by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
26/08/2021 - Alpinism
Greenland Siren Tower, report #1 by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
Belgian climbers Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Jean-Louis Wertz are currently climbing in Greenland with Aleksej Jaruta from Sweden. After having reached the island by sailing boat from France, the team managed to establish the first route up the steep Siren Tower.
Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans establish new variation on Pic de Bure in France
25/08/2021 - Alpinism
Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans establish new variation on Pic de Bure in France
German alpinists Stefan Glowacz and Philipp Hans have managed to establish a new line on Pic de Bure in the Dauphiné Prealps in France. The route is a variation to the classic Pilier Est established in 1961 by André Bertrand, René Desmaison and Yves Pollet-Villard.
New Kyrgyzstan climbs by Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev, Alex Tyulyupo
24/08/2021 - Alpinism
New Kyrgyzstan climbs by Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev, Alex Tyulyupo
Mountaineers Kirill Belotserkovskiy, Ivan Temerev and Alex Tyulyupo have established a series of new routes in the Western Kokshaal-Too mountain range in Kyrgyzstan. Highlights included ascents of Pik Alpinist (5482m) and Pik Korolyova (5816m).
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
20/08/2021 - Alpinism
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
In July a Slovenian Youth Alpine Team comprised of Matija Volontar, Bor Levičnik, Matevž Štular and Blaž Karner succeeded in climbing two new routes on Hualcan (6122m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Štular provides the report of the ascents, one of which was carried out with Aritza Monasterio.
New climb on Peru’s Nevado Sullcon Sur by Steve Meder, Edward Saona
19/08/2021 - Alpinism
New climb on Peru’s Nevado Sullcon Sur by Steve Meder, Edward Saona
On the 9th of August, the French-Peruvian Andinists Steve Meder and Edward Saona established a new route up the South-West Face of Nevado Sullcon Sur (5650m) in the Central Cordillera mountain range of Peru. Cara Suroeste Directa is only the 4th ascent of the mountain.
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
South Muysky Ridge in Siberia, big new Russian climbs on Peak Kart & Peak Mechta
Dmitrii Panov reports about a Russian summer 2020 climbing expedition to Peak Kart and Peak Mechta, situated in the South Muysky Ridge area of Siberia. During the 20-day expedition the climbers forged 8 new routes, made the first ascents of 8 mountains and completed 2 ridge traverses.
Christoph Schranz makes rope-solo first ascent of 8c multipitch on Hohe Munde, Austria
05/08/2021 - Alpinism
Christoph Schranz makes rope-solo first ascent of 8c multipitch on Hohe Munde, Austria
Austrian mountain guide Christoph Schranz has established, and subsequently freed, Ocha-Schau-Schuich, a 300m multi-pitch alpine climb graded 8c on Hohe Munde in Tyrol, Austria
Rick Allen perishes on K2
27/07/2021 - Alpinism
Rick Allen perishes on K2
68-year-old Scottish mountaineer Rick Allen has lost his life while attempting to establish a new route on K2. In 2012, together with Sandy Allan, he completed the historic first traverse of the interminable Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat.
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
26/07/2021 - Alpinism
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme...
Concha de Caracol South Face new route in Peru by Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin, Alex Torres
21/07/2021 - Alpinism
Concha de Caracol South Face new route in Peru by Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin, Alex Torres
Alpinists Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin and Alex Torres have made the first ascent of Cerveza, Pan y Ácido, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Concha de Caracol in the Cordillera Vilcanota massif in Peru.
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
15/07/2021 - Alpinism
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
Enenko and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of ¡Viva Perú Carajo !, a new mixed climb up the South Face of Nevado Huamashraju East in Peru. At the same time their expedition partners Manu Ponce and Micher Quito also established a new route up the mountain’s north face.
New climb on Marmarole in the Dolomites by Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans
12/07/2021 - Alpinism
New climb on Marmarole in the Dolomites by Stefan Glowacz, Philipp Hans
German climbers Stefan Glowacz and Philipp Hans have made the first ascent of Wallride Vol. 1, a new route up Croda Bianca (2841m) in the Marmarole group, Dolomites as part of their Wallride project.
Big Fighter climbed on Chaupi Huanca in Peru by Álex González, Jaume Peiró
07/07/2021 - Alpinism
Big Fighter climbed on Chaupi Huanca in Peru by Álex González, Jaume Peiró
Jaume Peiró and Álex González have completed the first ascent of Big Fighter (8a+? (6c/A2), 750m), on the Northern arete of Chaupi Huanca in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.
Zero climbed on Torre del Lago (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
27/06/2021 - Alpinism
Zero climbed on Torre del Lago (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
On 28 May 2021 the two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent of Zero, a new multi-pitch route on Torre del Lago (Fanis, Dolomites).
Heavenly Trap on Baruntse, Márek Holeček reports about new route with Radoslav Groh
08/06/2021 - Alpinism
Heavenly Trap on Baruntse, Márek Holeček reports about new route with Radoslav Groh
Czech alpinist Márek Holeček reports about Heavenly Trap, the new route climbed alpine style over 10 days up the West Face of Baruntse (7129m) in Nepal together with Radoslav Groh.

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