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Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award
The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Eiger Odyssee climbed in a day by Nicolas Favresse & Sébastien Berthe
01/09/2020 - Alpinism
Eiger Odyssee climbed in a day by Nicolas Favresse & Sébastien Berthe
Belgian climbers Nicolas Favresse and Sébastien Berthe have repeated Odyssee, one of the hardest rock climbs on the North Face of the the Eiger in Switzerland.
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
16/08/2020 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney
Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was an amazing experience on one of the most famous faces...
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
11/08/2020 - Climbing
Nicolas Favresse, Sébastien Berthe bike & climb the Alps
Seb Berthe and Nico Favresse are currently on a bike and climbing trip across the Alps. The Belgian climbers have made swift work of Silbergeier and Headless Children in the Rätikon massif and are now cycling towards Wilder Kaiser in Austria.
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
08/08/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
05/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses North Face: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Manitua
Italian alpinist Federica Mingolla reports about her repeat with Leonardo Gheza of Manitua, the difficult route first ascended solo by Slavko Svetičič in 1991 on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
19/07/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.
Sami Koponen repeats Kesäturkki, 8c DWS at Punkaharju in Finland
17/07/2020 - Climbing
Sami Koponen repeats Kesäturkki, 8c DWS at Punkaharju in Finland
Finnish rock climber Sami Koponen has made the second ascent of Kesäturkki, an 8c deep water solo at Punkaharju established in 2016 by Nalle Hukkataival.
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
16/07/2020 - Alpinism
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. The first free team ascent was...
Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
03/07/2020 - Alpinism
Red Pillar of Brouillard: new Mont Blanc rock climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti
Italian alpinists Matteo Della Bordella, François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have established Incroyable, a new rock climb up the famous Red Pillar of Brouillard on the Italian side of Mont Blanc.
Ortler & Königspitze paralpinism linkup by Aaron Durogati, Bruno Mottini
03/06/2020 - Alpinism
Ortler & Königspitze paralpinism linkup by Aaron Durogati, Bruno Mottini
Aaron Durogati reports about his Monday 3 June ascent with Bruno Mottini of the North Face of Ortler and the NE Face of Königspitze / Gran Zebrù. The duo enchained the mountains using a paraglider and needed 9.5 hours for the linkup.
Mont Blanc: Edmond Joyeusaz skis Brenva Face Comino-Grassi route
Mont Blanc: Edmond Joyeusaz skis Brenva Face Comino-Grassi route
On Monday 25 May 2020 the Italian mountain guide Edmond Joyeusaz skied from the summit of Mont Blanc down the Comino - Grassi route on the Brenva face, following the line first ascended in 1979 by Gianni Comino and Gian Carlo Grassi.
Caroline Ciavaldini, James Pearson embark on Tour Des Alpilles Bike & Climb
28/05/2020 - Climbing
Caroline Ciavaldini, James Pearson embark on Tour Des Alpilles Bike & Climb
Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson start their Tour Des Alpilles with their young son today. Powered by their ebikes, during their 1-month trip the three will visit more than 10 different crags including historically important cliffs such as Buoux, Orgon, Volx and Mouriers.
Ski mountaineering in Turkey's Aladağlar mountains
Ski mountaineering in Turkey's Aladağlar mountains
Slovak mountain guide Miroslav Peťo reports about his ski touring trip to the Ala Dağlar mountain range in Turkey with Robert Vrlák and Rastislav Križan which resulted in a number of interesting descents including what is likely to be the first integral descent of Mount Demirkazik via its South Face....
Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs, the film about legendary British mountaineer now online
01/05/2020 - Alpinism
Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs, the film about legendary British mountaineer now online
The docu-film Chris Bonington - Life and Climbs (2015, 22 minutes) is now online. Directed by Vinicio Stefanello for the Municipality of Courmayeur, in this film great British mountaineer tells his life story.
A perfect Patagonia premiere. By Raphaela Haug
28/04/2020 - Alpinism
A perfect Patagonia premiere. By Raphaela Haug
German alpinist Raphaela Haug talks about her first trip to Patagonia with climbing partner Laura Tiefenthaler, during which they climbed Cerro Torre and, with Barbara Vigl, ascended Fitz Roy.