1181 News found

01/12/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Della Bordella, Silvan Schüpbach follow their instincts on Pizzo Badile Alpinists Matteo Della Bordella and Silvan Schüpbach have climbed Crossway of Friendship on the northeast face of Pizzo Badile. This variation is dedicated to the late Matteo Bernasconi.

30/11/2020 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla frees Angels and Demons in Valle Orco On Caporal in Valle dell’Orco, Italy, Federica Mingolla has made the first free ascent of 'Angels and Demons', the multi-pitch rock climb started by Ezio Marlier and Massimo Farina 15 years ago Mingolla completed the route with Leonardo Gheza before freeing it with Simone Papalia. Her report, as well as...

24/11/2020 - Alpinism
24 hours of freedom on Sagwand in Valsertal by Martin Feistl, Sven Brand In mid-November 2020 Martin Feistl and Sven Brand in Valsertal, Austria, made the first ascent of 24 hours of freedom (300m, M6, WI 4, X) on the north face of Sagwand. This is a direct start to Rampenführe, the original line up the face, and shares a short section with...

16/11/2020 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini On 07/11/2020, just before South Tyrol declared itself in lockdown due to Covid, Simon Gietl and Davide Prandini made the first ascent of Aquädukt (IV, M5 650m), a new mixed climb up the north face of Wasserkopf (3135m) in the Rieserferner group of the Tauern Alps. At 3/4 height the...

04/11/2020 - Alpinism
Brenta Dolomites: Frizzi & Lazzi rock climb on Torrione di Vallesinella In summer 2019 Italian mountain guide Alessandro Beber, Alberto Fedrizzi and Martina Paolazzi made the first ascent of the multi-pitch climb Frizzi & Lazzi on Torrione di Vallesinella in the Brenta Dolomites.

26/10/2020 - Climbing
Sébastien Bouin adds Beyond Integral 9b/+ Pic Saint Loup France On 20/10/2020 Seb Bouin made the first ascent of Beyond integral 9b/+ and Terra Nova 8c+ at the crag Pic Saint Loup in France.

23/10/2020 - Alpinism
Mt. Forbes, Canada: virgin East Face climbed by Alik Berg, Quentin Roberts Alpinists Alik Berg and Quentin Roberts have made the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed and impressive East Face of Mount Forbes (3612 m) in the Canadian Rockies.

19/10/2020 - Alpinism
Trogkofel: new route in Italy's Carnic Alps by Anna & Michal Coubal On 20-21/08/2020 Czech alpinist Michel Coubal and his daughter Anna Coubalova made the first ascent of The Hour Between Dog and Wolf, a new multi-pitch climb up the north face of Trogkofel / Creta di Aip, Carnic Alps, Italy.

12/10/2020 - Alpinism
Baspa Valley, India: Raldang Spire climbed by Austrian expedition In October 2019 an Austrian expedition comprised of Alexander Blümel, Much Mayr, Peter Mühlburger and Matthias Wurzer made the first ascent of Baba Ji on Raldang Spire in the Baspa Valley, Kinnaur, India. Mühlburger reports.

11/10/2020 - Alpinism
Backstage revealed on Kleine Zinne, in Tre Cime di Lavaredo, climbed by Simon Gietl, Vittorio Messini In spring 2019 Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of Backstage, a 350m multi-pitch with difficulties up to VIII+/R3 on the south face of Kleine Zinne / Cima Piccola, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites. Messini reports.

06/10/2020 - Climbing
Climbing in Aladaglar, Turkey: Zorbey Aktuyun adds difficult trad route, completes Orient rope solo Turkish rock climber Zorbey Aktuyun has made the first ascent of the 8a trad climb Kült at Pınarbaşı Canyon in the Aladağlar massif. Furthermore, on the striking Parmakkaya obelisk he has made a rope solo ascent of the classic Orient climb, established by Helmut Gargitter and Pauli Trenkwalder.

05/10/2020 - Alpinism
Tom Hornbein, Everest West Ridge pioneer, in American Alpine Club Legacy Series A video tribute to Tom Hornbein, the formidable American mountaineer famous above all for his first ascent of the West Ridge of Everest in 1963 with Willi Unsoeld, by the American Alpine Club Legacy Series.

30/09/2020 - Alpinism
Tyrolean Trad Trilogy completed by Hannes Hohenwarter, Martin Sieberer Martin Sieberer reports about his repeats with Hannes Hohenwarter of Locker vom Hocker on Schüsselkar, Tschechenplatte in the Karwendel and Pumprisse in the Wilder Kaiser. Three classic limestone trad climbs in Tyrol, Austria, climbed one day after the next, and reached by train and bike.

02/09/2020 - Alpinism
Heinz Mariacher, mountaineering, freedom and the Paul Preuss Award The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.

01/09/2020 - Alpinism
Eiger Odyssee climbed in a day by Nicolas Favresse & Sébastien Berthe Belgian climbers Nicolas Favresse and Sébastien Berthe have repeated Odyssee, one of the hardest rock climbs on the North Face of the the Eiger in Switzerland.

16/08/2020 - Alpinism
Leo Gheza makes solo ascent of Central Pillar of Frêney Italian mountaineer Leonardo Gheza reports about his solo ascent of the Central Pillar of Frêney in the Mont Blanc massif on 6/08/2020. This might well be the first solo ascent in just a single day. In any case it was an amazing experience on one of the most famous faces...
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