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Broad Peak first winter ascent video
09/10/2013 - Alpinism
Broad Peak first winter ascent video
The video - documentary by Marcin Powalski about the historic first winter ascent of Broad Peak, carried out in March 2013 by a Polish expedition led by Krzysztof Wielicki during which Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski lost their lives.
Variant of Li-Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner, a mountaineering story
08/10/2013 - Alpinism
Variant of Li-Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner, a mountaineering story
Tito Arosio and Luca Vallata introduce their variation to Li-Cuore (450m, VII+, A3, VII- obl.) that climbs between the South Tyrolean route and Via Cuore up the NE Face of Monte Agner (Dolomites).
Cerro Torre climbed in winter by Siegrist, Arnold, Huber and Villavicencio
22/08/2013 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre climbed in winter by Siegrist, Arnold, Huber and Villavicencio
On 30 July Stephan Siegrist, Dani Arnold, Thomas Huber and Matias Villavicencio succeeded in a rare winter ascent of Cerro Torre, Patagonia.
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
08/08/2013 - Alpinism
Divine Providence climbed by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire
The story of the recent repeat of Divine Providence by Andrea Di Donato and Bertrand Lemaire. Established in 1984 by French alpinists Patrick Gabarrou and François Marsigny and graded ABO, Divine Providence up the Gran Pilier d'Angle was freed in 1990 by Alain Ghersen and Thierry Renault. Even today this...
Artur Hajzer perishes on Gasherbrum I
11/07/2013 - Alpinism
Artur Hajzer perishes on Gasherbrum I
7 July the 51-year-old great Polish alpinists Artur Hajzer died while falling down the Japanese couloir on Gasherbrum I (8068m).
David Lama solos Sagwand Mittelpfeiler
14/06/2013 - Alpinism
David Lama solos Sagwand Mittelpfeiler
On 14 May David Lama soloed the Mittelpfeiler route (800m, M5) up Sagwand in the Valsertal, Zillertal Alps, Austria.
Everest 60 years between legend and business
29/05/2013 - Alpinism
Everest 60 years between legend and business
On May 29, 60 years ago Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary stood on top of the world for the first time ever. Since then Everest has continued to be a symbol, hovering somewhere between a legend and "consumerism". By Erminio Ferrari.
Königsspitze ski mountaineering in Italy
18/04/2013 - Alpinism
Königsspitze ski mountaineering in Italy
Mountain Guide Eraldo Meraldi introduces the classic ski mountaineering to the summit of Königsspitze, one of the most beautiful and sought-after peaks in the Alps.
Jirishanca and the attempt by Michi Wohlleben in Peru
03/04/2013 - Alpinism
Jirishanca and the attempt by Michi Wohlleben in Peru
Interview and video about the 2012 attempt carried out by Michi Wohlleben, Arne Bergau and Hannes Jähn to ascend Jirishanca (6094m) in Peru.
Eiger North Face: English winter attempt of Russian route
01/04/2013 - Alpinism
Eiger North Face: English winter attempt of Russian route
The video of the march 2013 attempt by Andy Kirkpatrick, Ross Kain and Neil Chelton to repeat the Russian route up the North Face of the Eiger.
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
20/03/2013 - Alpinism
Sagwand first winter ascent by Auer, Lama and Ortner
On 16 and 17 March 2013 the highly experienced Austrian alpinists Hansjörg Auer, David Lama and Peter Ortner made the first winter ascent of the Sagwand via the route Schiefer Riss first climbed by Mathias Rebitsch and Roland Berger in 1947.
Broad Peak: all hope lost for Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski
08/03/2013 - Alpinism
Broad Peak: all hope lost for Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski
Krzysztof Wielicki has called off the Polish winter expedition to Broad Peak. The bodies of Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski will remain up on the mountain.
Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
07/03/2013 - Alpinism
Simone Moro, the drama on Broad Peak and winter mountaineering in the Himalaya
The thoughts of Simone Moro about high-altitude winter mountaineering on the world's Eight-thousanders and about the events which have taken place and are currently unfolding on Broad Peak.
Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
06/03/2013 - Alpinism
Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
The situation is currently extremely difficult for the Polish mountaineers who carried out the first winter ascent of Broad Peak yesterday: while Artur Malek and Adam Bielecki spent the night at Camp IV, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski bivied at the col at 7900m.
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
05/03/2013 - Alpinism
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
On 5 March 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek made the historic first winter of Broad Peak. The Polish mountaineers are members of an expedition led by the living monument to alpinism Krzysztof Wielicki. With this latest success a staggering 9 first winter ascents of the...
Superb new winter climbs in Scotland
12/02/2013 - Alpinism
Superb new winter climbs in Scotland
A report of the recent new winter routes climbed in Scotland which include Shooting the Breeze (IX,8 Guy Robertson, Greg Boswell) and Immortal Memory (IX,9 Guy Robertson, Jason Currie) on Beinn Eighe, Vapourizer (VIII,8 Guy Robertson, Greg Boswell) on Creag an Dubh Loch, No Success Like Failure (IX,8 Simon Richardson,...

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