964 News found
21/08/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses: Federica Mingolla, Leo Gheza repeat Il Giovane Guerriero for Matteo Pasquetto Federica Mingolla and Leo Gheza have made the first repeat of Il Giovane Guerriero, Young Warrior, the route established only recently up the east face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif by Matteo Della Bordella, Matteo Pasquetto and Luca Moroni. The route was dedicated to Matteo Pasquetto...
13/08/2020 - Alpinism
New rock climb on Rienzwand in Rienztal, Dolomites On the east pillar of Rienzwand in Rienztal (Höhlensteintal, Dolomites) Peter Manhartsberger and Martin Wibmer have established Osttiroler Marende, a new alpine sports climb graded 7b.
08/08/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
03/08/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher establish Lifestyle on Torre del Lago, Dolomites The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of Lifestyle, a new multi-pitch rock climb up the west face of Torre del Lago (Fanis Group - Lagazuoi group) in the Dolomites.
01/08/2020 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc Super Integrale de Peutèrey: François Cazzanelli, Francesco Ratti climb in the footsteps of Renato Casarotto Mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti have enchained the Ratti-Vitali route on Aiguille Noire de Peutèrey, the Gervasutti - Boccalatte route on Picco Gugliermina and the Central Pillar of Frêney, first climbed in 1961 by Chris Bonington, Ian Clough, Jan Duglosz, Don Whillans before proceeding to the summit of...
24/07/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of DNA, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Croda degli Alpini, the foresummit of Cima Ovest in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites.
19/07/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.
16/07/2020 - Alpinism
Incroyable on Red Pillar of Brouillard, a dream climb by Della Bordella, Cazzanelli, Ratti Matteo Della Bordella, president of the Ragni di Lecco mountaineering club, reports about Incroyable, the superb and difficult new route on Red Pillar of Brouillard (Mont Blanc) first ascended on 30 June and 1 July with Matterhorn mountain guides François Cazzanelli and Francesco Ratti. The first free team ascent was...
15/07/2020 - Interviews
Massimo Bal: Barliard in the Ollomont Valley and the first ascent climbing contest Interview with mountain guide Massimo Bal, prolific setter of new routes throughout the Aosta Valley and the driving force behind the Barliard crag in Valle di Ollomont where € 1,000 worth of climbing gear can be won at the innovative first ascent climbing contest.
10/07/2020 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc's Digital Crack repeated by Marco Sappa Marco Sappa has repeated the famous Digital Crack, first ascended in 1990 by Thierry Renault and Alain Ghersen on the Grand Gendarme of the Arête des Cosmiques in the Mont Blanc massif. The Italian mountain guide reports.
29/06/2020 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Video: Edmond Joyeusaz skiing the Mont Blanc Brenva Face The video of the mountain guide Edmond Joyeusaz and his ski descent of the Brenva Face on Mont Blanc, carried out on 25/05/2020 down the climb first ascended by Gianni Comino and Gian Carlo Grassi in 1979.
24/06/2020 - Alpinism
Wolkenreise, a journey through the clouds in the Dolomites Enrico Maioni, Cortina mountain guide, introduces Wolkenreise, a multi-pitch alpine sports climb
Pilastro di Misurina in the Cadini Group of the Italian Dolomites, first ascended in 2017 by Peter Manhartsberger and Stefan Kopeinig and dedicated to Florian Thamer.
10/06/2020 - Alpinism
Multicolor: new multi-pitch rock climb in Val Pramper, Zoldo Dolomites On Monte Petorgnon in Val Pramper in the Zoldo Dolomites, Daniele Geremia, Santiago Padrós and Fulvio Trentini have made the first ascent of Multicolor (280m, 7a+)
04/06/2020 - Alpinism
Climbing the Cassin - Ratti on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites. By Carlo Cosi The historic Cassin - Ratti route the north face of Cima Ovest di Lavaredo in the Dolomites, established by Riccardo Cassin and Vittorio Ratti with two bivouacs from 28-30 August 1935, is a landmark in climbing history. Italian mountain guide Carlo Cosi recalls his summer 2019 repeat with Sara Mastel.
29/05/2020 - Snow Ski-skimountaineering
Mont Blanc: Edmond Joyeusaz skis Brenva Face Comino-Grassi route On Monday 25 May 2020 the Italian mountain guide Edmond Joyeusaz skied from the summit of Mont Blanc down the Comino - Grassi route on the Brenva face, following the line first ascended in 1979 by Gianni Comino and Gian Carlo Grassi.
25/05/2020 - Climbing
Climbing at Valgrisenche: Marco Sappa frees La Fessura di Gianfri at Nid Des Hirondelles Marco Sappa reports about the first ascent of La Fessura di Gianfri, a difficult trad crack climb at the historic crag Nid Des Hirondelles in Valgrisenche, Valle d’Aosta, Italy. The route is dedicated to his father Gianfranco Sappa, a Courmayeur mountain guide, who perished in a climbing accident in 2019.
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