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Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
29/04/2011 - Alpinism
Erhard Loretan, good-bye to a great alpinist
On Thursday 28 April Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Erhard Loretan died in a climbing accident while ascending Grünhorn in the Bernse Alps. Loretan was one of the greatest alpinists of the modern era, the third person to have climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks and the second to do so...
Milan Climbing flash: The Bouldering World Cup and the other visions
21/04/2011 - Competitions
Milan Climbing flash: The Bouldering World Cup and the other visions
The Bouldering World Cup as seen through the (enamoured) eyes of Nicola Noè and Nicoletta Costi and the particular photos taken by Diego Neonati.
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
19/04/2011 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2011, winners, diversity and the challenges of alpinism
Two Piolets d'Or were awarded on 15 April in Chamonix, France, during the IXX Piolet d'Or 2011: to the Greenland Big Walls by Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Ben Ditto and Bob Shepton and to the ascent up Mount Logan in Canada by Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama from...
New climbs at Indian Creek
17/04/2011 - Climbing
New climbs at Indian Creek
New rock climbs at Indian Creek, Utah, USA, by Neil Kauffman and Trevor Bowman
Broad Peak and GI, winter ascents abandoned
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Broad Peak and GI, winter ascents abandoned
Neither the Polish mountaineers engaged on Broad Peak nor the international expedition on G1 have managed to climb these giant mountains during the coldest season, and both expedition have now abandoned their attempts.
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
The IXX Piolet d'Or will take place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc). Six ascents are in the running for the golden ice axe, while the great British mountaineer Doug Scott will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award. Details of the evening dedicated to Extra-Ordinary...
The Sellaronda hourglass, the winners and the magic of the Ski Alp
21/02/2011 - Competitions
The Sellaronda hourglass, the winners and the magic of the Ski Alp
On 18 February 2011 Alain Seletto and Tony Sbalbi, Roberta Pedranzini and Francesca Martinelli won the 16th Sellaronda Skimarathon, the great ski mountaineering competition in the Dolomites. An analysis of the magical tour which crosses the passes Gardena, Campolongo, Pordoi and Sella by Lorenzo Scandroglio.
Dario Corradi has left us, Daone Ice Master World Cup cancelled
04/01/2011 - Competitions
Dario Corradi has left us, Daone Ice Master World Cup cancelled
48-year-old Dario Corradi, commissioner for agriculture and forestry in Daone, died yesterday at Trento. The Daone Ice Master World Cup, of which Corradi was an active promoter, has been cancelled as a sign of mourning and respect.
The Tor de Geants mountain race by Stevie Haston.
18/10/2010 - Competitions
The Tor de Geants mountain race by Stevie Haston.
Stevie Haston, alpinist, ice climber and snowboarder, tells about his experience of the first ever Tor de Geants, the incredible mountain marathon which covers 330km and 24,000 vertical meters, starting and finishing at Courmayeur and completing a circle around the Valle d'Aosta, via the Gran Paradiso, Monte Rosa, the Matterhorn...
Walter Nones dies on Cho Oyu
03/10/2010 - Alpinism
Walter Nones dies on Cho Oyu
Walter Nones has died on Cho Oyu (8201m), the sixth highest mountain in the world. His death has been confirmed directly by the wife of the Italian alpinist.
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
27/05/2010 - Alpinism
The North Face of Monte Sarmiento and the 1986 first ascent by the Ragni di Lecco
Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the North Face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition which on 24/12/1986 reached the West Summit...
Bouldering World Cup 2010, Fischhuber and Johnson win in Greifensee
17/05/2010 - Competitions
Bouldering World Cup 2010, Fischhuber and Johnson win in Greifensee
On 15/05/2010 the first of the seven stage Bouldering World Cup 2010 was won in Greifensee (Switzerland) by Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) and Alex Johnson (USA). Adam Ondra (CZE) and Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) placed second, while Christian Core (ITA) and Chloé Graftiaux (BEL) finished third.
Annapurna, successful and failed rescues
30/04/2010 - Alpinism
Annapurna, successful and failed rescues
Three alpinists weere airlifted to safety by helicopter from an altitude of 6950m on Annapurna yesterday, while Spanish mountaineer Tolo Calafat passed away.
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
30/03/2010 - Alpinism
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The exclusive interview with Hervé Barmasse.
Dave MacLeod, new desperate winter climb in Scotland
26/02/2010 - Alpinism
Dave MacLeod, new desperate winter climb in Scotland
Dave MacLeod has carried out the first winter ascent of Anubis, at E8 6c one of the hardest summer routes on Ben Nevis which was, unsurprisingly, first ascended in 2005 by Macleod himself.

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