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Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
06/03/2013 - Alpinism
Difficult hours for Poles on Broad Peak first winter ascent
The situation is currently extremely difficult for the Polish mountaineers who carried out the first winter ascent of Broad Peak yesterday: while Artur Malek and Adam Bielecki spent the night at Camp IV, Maciej Berbeka and Tomasz Kowalski bivied at the col at 7900m.
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
05/03/2013 - Alpinism
Broad Peak first winter ascent by Polish expedition!
On 5 March 2013 Maciej Berbeka, Adam Bielecki, Tomasz Kowalski and Artur Malek made the historic first winter of Broad Peak. The Polish mountaineers are members of an expedition led by the living monument to alpinism Krzysztof Wielicki. With this latest success a staggering 9 first winter ascents of the...
Ice Climbing World Cup 2013: Park and Hrozová take gold in Busteni
11/02/2013 - Competitions
Ice Climbing World Cup 2013: Park and Hrozová take gold in Busteni
The 4th stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2013 took place in Busteni, Busteni in Romania was won by Park Heeyong and Lucie Hrozova. Angelika Rainer placed 7th but retains the lead of the overall ranking
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
20/12/2012 - Interviews
Mayan Smith-Gobat interview
Interview with New Zealand rock climber Mayan Smith-Gobat. Her ascent of Punks in the Gym at Arapiles, the Salathé Wall on El Capitan, the Nose Speed and more...
Sean McColl wins the La Sportiva Legends Only boulder competition in Stockholm
03/12/2012 - Competitions
Sean McColl wins the La Sportiva Legends Only boulder competition in Stockholm
The Canadian climber Sean McColl crowned his best competition season yet by winning this unique challenge organised by La Sportiva, beating runner-up Dmitry Sharafutdinov by one attempt.
International Master’s Course in Mountain Medicine, the final report by Doctor Luigi Festi
08/11/2012 - Alpinism
International Master’s Course in Mountain Medicine, the final report by Doctor Luigi Festi
The 1st International Master Course in Mountain Medicine will be completed with the final thesis and diploma at the Insubria University. This project, unique and innovative, came to life as a real challenge and involved 14 doctors from all of Italy, combining technical ability with hands on experience and mountain...
Lead World Cup 2012, Ernst and McColl win in China
15/10/2012 - Climbing
Lead World Cup 2012, Ernst and McColl win in China
The sixth stage of the Lead World Cup 2012 took place in Xining, China on 12-13/10/2012 and was won by Johanna Ernst from Austria and Sean McColl from Canada. Stefano Ghisolfi placed third, putting Italy back on the podium after many years absence.
Manaslu, a report after the avalanche by the Mountain Kingdom expedition
24/09/2012 - Alpinism
Manaslu, a report after the avalanche by the Mountain Kingdom expedition
The situation on Manaslu after the avalanche disaster, sent to us by the Mountain Kingdom expedition
World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris.
17/09/2012 - Competitions
World Climbing Championships 2012, all the results from Paris.
The 12th World Climbing Championship took place in Paris last week. Lead was won by the Austrians Jakob Schubert and - for a record breaking fourth time - Angela Eiter. Boulder was won by Mélanie Sandoz from France and - for the third time - Dmitry Sharafudtinov from Russia. Yuliya...
Oscar Perèz and Francesca Canepa win the Tor des Geants 2012
17/09/2012 - Competitions
Oscar Perèz and Francesca Canepa win the Tor des Geants 2012
The Tor des Geants 2012 was won by Oscar Perèz (Spain) and Francesca Canepa (Italy). The race along the Valle d'Aosta paths at the foot of Mont Blanc (330km and 24.000 elevation gain) was completed by 392 athletes.
Revelation mountains, new Slovenian first ascents in Alaska
19/07/2012 - Alpinism
Revelation mountains, new Slovenian first ascents in Alaska
In spring 2012 a Slovenian expedition to the Revelation Mountain range in Alaska resulted in a flurry of first ascents up virgin peaks. The trip report by expedition leader Anze Cokl.
The lucky ice climber on Kennedy’s Gully
03/07/2012 - Climbing
The lucky ice climber on Kennedy’s Gully
Video of a lucky ice climber, saved in extremis on Kennedy’s Gully, an ice climb at the Ouray Ice Park, Colorado (USA).
Ueli Steck and Everest: the ascent of a great alpinist
04/06/2012 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck and Everest: the ascent of a great alpinist
The report of Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck who on 18 May 2012 reached the summit of Everest along with Tenji Sherpa. We have published the account in its entirety as this provides insight into the crowds present during this pre-monsoon season, the job of the Sherpa and what it means...
Depravation, new route on Presanella
23/04/2012 - Alpinism
Depravation, new route on Presanella
On 31 March 2012 Francesco Salvaterra and Patrick Ghezzi established Depravation (250m,T D+/ED- WI5 M6 VI+ A1/2), a new route up the East Face of Presanella (3558m) in Italy.
Jim Bridwell, his Cerro Torre point of view
13/03/2012 - Alpinism
Jim Bridwell, his Cerro Torre point of view
The thoughts of American alpinist Jim Bridwell about the bolt chopping on the Compressor Route, Cerro Torre, Patagonia
Gasherbrum I, historic Polish first winter ascent and drama for Göschl, Hussain and Hahlen
12/03/2012 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum I, historic Polish first winter ascent and drama for Göschl, Hussain and Hahlen
At 08:30 local time on 09/03/2012 the summit of Gasherbrum 1 (Karakorum, Pakistan) was reached for the first time in winter by the Polish mountaineers Adam Bielecki and Janusz Golab. On the same day the alpinists Gerfried Göschl, Nisar Hussain and Cedric Hahlen were seen for the last time on...

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