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Triglav and Travnik, important winter ascents in Slovenia by Mrak, Vukotič and Marčič
20/01/2015 - Alpinism
Triglav and Travnik, important winter ascents in Slovenia by Mrak, Vukotič and Marčič
From  23 - 26 December young Slovenian alpinists Matevž Mrak (23) and Matevž Vukotič (24) made the second winter ascent, and first ever from the base of the face, of one of Slovenia’s most famous routes, Obraz Sfinge on the North Face of Triglav. They did so by climbing the Prusik -...
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
15/01/2015 - Climbing
Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson free climb the Dawn Wall on El Capitan
On 14 January 2015, after 19 days on the wall and years of efforts, American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson completed the historic first free ascent of Dawn Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA. Almost 1000m high and with two pitches graded 5.14d (9a), this is probably the hardest...
Markus Pucher solos Cerro Torre in raging storm
01/01/2015 - Alpinism
Markus Pucher solos Cerro Torre in raging storm
A year after his fast solo ascent of the Ragni route on Cerro Torre, the Austrian alpinist Markus Pucher has now soloed the classic west face route again, this time through a raging storm.
Simon Gietl and Adam Holzknecht make first winter ascent of Wüstenblume, Sass de la Crusc, Dolomites
29/12/2014 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl and Adam Holzknecht make first winter ascent of Wüstenblume, Sass de la Crusc, Dolomites
On 22 and 23 December 2014 the South Tyrolean alpinists Simon Gietl and Adam Holzknecht made the first winter ascent of Wüstenblume, Sass de la Crusc, Dolomites.
Cerro Torre, Italian climbing action in Patagonia
19/12/2014 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre, Italian climbing action in Patagonia
Currently there are numerous Italian teams climbing in Patagonia, in particular in the Chalten massif, where Cerro Torre was climbed via the Ragni route by Marcello Cominetti, Massimo Lucco, Francesco Salvaterra, Majori Marco, Marco Farina and François Cazzanelli. The route's first ascent this season was made in September by Ermanno...
Patagonia first ascent by Colin Haley and Rob Smith
11/12/2014 - Alpinism
Patagonia first ascent by Colin Haley and Rob Smith
American alpinists Colin Haley and Rob Smith have made the first ascent of Romance Explosion (500m, 5.10R, M5R) and in doing so have made the first ascent of Aguja Antipasto, the beautiful tower located next to Cerro San Lorenzo, Patagonia.
Desert Sandstone Climbing Trip # 1 - Colorado National Monument
21/11/2014 - Climbing
Desert Sandstone Climbing Trip # 1 - Colorado National Monument
The rock climbing tour through Utah - Colorado - Nevada - Arizona by Gian Luca Cavalli (CAAI - Gruppo Occidentale), Manrico Dell'Agnola (CAAI - Gruppo Orientale) and Marcello Sanguineti (CAAI - Gruppo Occidentale).
Chugimago West Face first ascent by Domen Kastelic and Sam Hennessey
19/11/2014 - Alpinism
Chugimago West Face first ascent by Domen Kastelic and Sam Hennessey
On 11 - 12 October 2014 Domen Kastelic and Sam Hennessey made the first ascent of the West Face of Chugimago (Chukyima Go), 6259m, Nepal.
Lofoten Storpillaren, new climb up Vagakallen by Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström
08/11/2014 - Climbing
Lofoten Storpillaren, new climb up Vagakallen by Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström
This summer Adam Pustelnik and Andreas Klarström made the first ascent of The Corner kick (8a, 900m), a difficult and dangerous new variation to the climb Freya up the Storpillaren pillar on the North Face of Vågakallen, Lofoten islands, Norway.
Kishtwar: three Himalayan first ascents by Siegrist, Senf and Abegglen
17/10/2014 - Alpinism
Kishtwar: three Himalayan first ascents by Siegrist, Senf and Abegglen
In September 2014 Dres Abegglen, Thomas Senf and Stephan Siegrist made the first ascents of the peaks Shiepra 5885m and Kharagosa 5840m in the Kishtwar region of India's Himalaya. Furthermore, at the start of October the trio climbed a new route up Kishtwar Shivling, making what is believed to be...
Shark's Tooth in Greenland by fair means, the report by Matteo Della Bordella
16/10/2014 - Alpinism
Shark's Tooth in Greenland by fair means, the report by Matteo Della Bordella
The report by Matteo Della Bordella about the first ascent of The Great Shark Hunt (900m, 7b+), the new route up Shark's Tooth in Greenland established onsight and in a single push in August 2014 together with Silvan Schüpbach and Christian Ledergerber. A great adventure that involved kayaks (to paddle...
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
02/10/2014 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses, Directe de l'Amitié by Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias
On 26 and 27 September 2014 Corrado Pesce and Martin Elias repeated Directe de l'Amitie on the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc). A route first climbed in winter 1974 by Louis Audoubert, Michel Feuillarade, Marc Galy and Yannick Seigneur, described by Corrado Korra Pesce as 'the most...
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
29/09/2014 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum V, first ascent by the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong
On 25/07/2014 the Koreans Chi-young Ahn and Nak-jong Seong completed the first ascent of Gasherbrum V (7147m) in Pakistan, climbing alpine style via a new route up the South Face. The report by expedition leader Chi-young Ahn.
Then and now: the Lecco route on Grand Capucin
03/08/2014 - Alpinism
Then and now: the Lecco route on Grand Capucin
Matteo Della Bordella and Arianna Colliard and the ascent of the Lecco route up the SE Face of Grand Capucin, put up in 1968 by the Ragni di Lecco climbers Aldo Anghileri, Guerino Cariboni, Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Mauri and Pino Negri. A story to remember a great route up the...
Michel Piola interview: climbing on Mont Blanc, the search and the story that continues
22/07/2014 - Interviews
Michel Piola interview: climbing on Mont Blanc, the search and the story that continues
The fabulous world of Babette, or rather Mont Blanc's marvelous granite climbing, starting from Envers des Aiguilles. Interview with Michel Piola, one of the most prolific alpinists in the world who, in more than 30 years of activity, has left an indelible mark on climbing. His routes are considered priceless,...
Siula Chico: Looking for the Void, new French route in Peru
29/05/2014 - Alpinism
Siula Chico: Looking for the Void, new French route in Peru
From 16 to 20 May 2014 the French alpinists Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet, Hélias Millerioux and Robin Revest made the first ascent of Looking for the Void, a difficult new ice and mixed route up the West face of Siula Chico in the Cordillera Huayhuash in Peru.