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Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
17/11/2016 - Alpinism
Aurora Artika, discovering the climbing in Greenland's Mythic Circle
Paolo Marazzi talks about his 'sailing and climbing' experience in Greenland’s Mythic Circle. The result: two new 800m climbs and above all though ‘an absolutely unique adventure in the North Sea.’
Annapurna III and the attempt by David Lama, Hansjörg Auer & Alex Blümel
16/11/2016 - Alpinism
Annapurna III and the attempt by David Lama, Hansjörg Auer & Alex Blümel
Video footage of the attempt to climb the Southeast Ridge of Annapurna III (7555m), carried out last spring by David Lama, Hansjörg Auer and Alex Blümel.
Jorg Verhoeven claims first repeat of Dihedral Wall in Yosemite
14/11/2016 - Climbing
Jorg Verhoeven claims first repeat of Dihedral Wall in Yosemite
After 5 days of climbing Jorg Verhoeven has now carried out the first repeat of 'Dihedral Wall' on El Capitan in Yosemite. Until this repeat, carried out together with his wife Katharina Saurwein, the route had only been free climbed once before, namely by Tommy Caldwell who in 2004 established...
Russian direttissima up Thalay Sagar North Face
11/11/2016 - Alpinism
Russian direttissima up Thalay Sagar North Face
In September 2016 Russian mountaineers Dmitry Golovchenko, Dmitry Grigoriev and Sergey Nilov made the first ascent of Moveable Feast (1400m), a difficult new climb the North Face of Thalay Sagar (6904m) in the Indian Himalayas.
Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm
10/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm
On 20 September 2016 Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm made what is likely to be the first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300m) in Tibet. The route is called Dom and graded AI4 M5.
Tsirku, skiing and snowboarding’s final frontier
Tsirku, skiing and snowboarding’s final frontier
The three episodes of 'Tsirku', ie skiing and snowboarding that defy imagination above the Tsirku Glacier in Canada, featuring Ralph Backstrom, Hadley Hammer and Samuel Anthamatten.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on Cima Grande Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish Das Erbe der Väter
08/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on Cima Grande Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish Das Erbe der Väter
Interview with South Tyrol’s Simon Gietl who, together with, Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of ‘Das Erbe der Väter’ up the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. After sharing a start with Via Comici, the new route runs to the right, breaches difficulties up to...
Denis Urubko - my alpinism #2
08/11/2016 - Alpinism
Denis Urubko - my alpinism #2
The second video portrait of Denis Urubko, one of the strongest Himalayan mountaineers of the new millennium.
Michael Piccolruaz flashes 8B boulder in Austria's Maltatal
08/11/2016 - Climbing
Michael Piccolruaz flashes 8B boulder in Austria's Maltatal
Italian climber Michael Piccolruaz has flashed ‘Wrestling with an alligator’, an 8B boulder problem freed by Klem Loskot in the Maltatal, Austria.
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan
From 5 to 20 October 2016 Marek Raganowicz made what is believed to be only the second solo ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster, the A5 aid climb put up in 1991 by Eric Kohl on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea
The World Bouldering Champion Petra Klingler from Switzerland reports about her recent travels to South Korea where she took part in the first Mudeungsan Bouldering Festival.
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
04/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites
In October 2015 on Torre Argentina in the Vallaccia group (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) the brothers Enrico Geremia and Nicolò Geremia made the first ascent of 'Via dei Balotini', a new rock climb to the right of Via Maffei - Frizzera.
Christoph Hainz makes solo first ascent of Golden Pillar of Ortler
03/11/2016 - Alpinism
Christoph Hainz makes solo first ascent of Golden Pillar of Ortler
On 29/08/2016 Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of 'Golden Pillar of Ortler‘ (max VI+ , 750m) up the SW pillar of Mt. Ortler, at 3905m the highest mountain in the South Tyrol, Italy.
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
Corsica, Bavella: Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia forge Ro.Ma. up Punta U Corbu
31/10/2016 - Alpinism
Corsica, Bavella: Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia forge Ro.Ma. up Punta U Corbu
On the 'most beautiful and famous big wall in Corsica', i.e. Punta U Corbu at Col de Bavella, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia have completed their 'Ro-Ma Project’ to create the new multi-pitch rock climb Ro.Ma. (180m, 7c max, 7a+ obl). Oviglia provides the details.