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Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range
26/11/2020 - Alpinism
Alaska's autumn nets two big new climbs in Hayes Range
Benjamin Lieber reports about two big new climbs ascended in Alaska’s Hayes Range: DeWilde Style (800m AI4+) up the SE Face of Peak 9,250ft with Alex Hansen and Longing For Light (700m AI5) on the NE Shoulder of Mount Moffit climbed above the Trident Glacier with Hansen and Austin Schmitz.
Ekaterina Barashchuk, Danyil Boldyrev crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow
22/11/2020 - Competitions
Ekaterina Barashchuk, Danyil Boldyrev crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow
Ekaterina Barashchuk from Russia and Danyil Boldyrev from the Ukraine were crowned European Speed Champions in Moscow, Russia, yesterday after beating Elizaveta Ivanov and Lev Rudatskiy. The bronze medal was won by Iuliia Kaplina and Marcin Dzienski. Kaplina set a new Speed World Record in the qualification round, stopping the...
Emily Harrington climbs El Capitan’s Golden Gate in a day

05/11/2020 - Climbing
Emily Harrington climbs El Capitan’s Golden Gate in a day

Supported by Alex Honnold, American rock climber Emily Harrington has made a free ascent of Golden Gate on El Capitan in Yosemite in 21 hours 13 minutes.
Paklenica Croatia: modern classic climbed by Boris Čujić, Ivica Matković
03/11/2020 - Climbing
Paklenica Croatia: modern classic climbed by Boris Čujić, Ivica Matković
At Paklenica in Croatia Boris Čujić and Ivica Matković have made the first ascent of Besmrtnici, a 360m multi-pitch no harder than 6c that is already being described as a modern classic. Čujić reports.
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
15/10/2020 - Climbing
Barbara Zangerl climbs Greenspit in Valle dell’Orco
Austrian climber Barbara Zangerl has become the first woman to climb Greenspit, the difficult trad route first ascended by Didier Berthod in Valle dell’Orco, Italy.
Glen Denny, the Golden Age of Yosemite photographer
14/10/2020 - Climbing
Glen Denny, the Golden Age of Yosemite photographer
The video tribute to Glen Denny, the American climber and photographer who captured through his images the Golden Age of rock climbing in Yosemite National Park, by the American Alpine Club Legacy Series.
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
01/10/2020 - Alpinism
Ushba & Ailama, difficult new Georgian climbs in the Caucasus by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze, Levan Lashkarashvili
In September 2020 Georgian mountaineers made a 16-day trip to Svaneti in Central Caucasus and completed two new routes. The first, by Archil Badriashvili, Giorgi Tepnadze and Levan Lashkarashvili, up the SW Face of Ailama (4,547m), the second by Badriashvili and Tepnadze up the NW Face of Ushba. Badriashvili reports.
Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Change, world’s first 9b+ at Flatanger in Norway
28/09/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Ghisolfi repeats Change, world’s first 9b+ at Flatanger in Norway
Earlier today Stefano Ghisolfi made the second ascent of Change, the first 9b+ sport climb in the world established by Adam Ondra in 2012 at Flatanger in Norway.
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
28/09/2020 - Climbing
Remembering Kurt Albert, German climbing legend and father of the redpoint
Precisely 10 years ago German climbing legend Kurt Albert died at the age of 56. He invented the redpoint philosophy in Frankenjura in 1975, considered nowadays the standard for sport climbing worldwide, and established numerous important rock climbs and big walls across the globe.
Laura Rogora, Adam Ondra claim historic victory at Briançon Lead World Cup
23/08/2020 - Competitions
Laura Rogora, Adam Ondra claim historic victory at Briançon Lead World Cup
At Briançon in France Laura Rogora from Italy and Adam Ondra from the Czech Republic won the first and probably only stage of the Lead World Cup 2020. Rogora is only the second Italian woman to win gold in a Lead World Cup stage after Luisa Iovane who won in...
New rock climb on Rienzwand in Rienztal, Dolomites
13/08/2020 - Alpinism
New rock climb on Rienzwand in Rienztal, Dolomites
On the east pillar of Rienzwand in Rienztal (Höhlensteintal, Dolomites) Peter Manhartsberger and Martin Wibmer have established Osttiroler Marende, a new alpine sports climb graded 7b.
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
08/08/2020 - Alpinism
Matteo Pasquetto perishes on Grandes Jorasses
Yesterday afternoon Matteo Pasquetto, the talented Italian alpinist and aspirant mountain guide, lost his life while descending from the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Stefano Carnati king of Jungle Boogie 9a+ at Céüse
07/07/2020 - Climbing
Stefano Carnati king of Jungle Boogie 9a+ at Céüse
At Céüse in France, 22-year-old Italian climber Stefano Carnati has repeated Jungle Boogie, a 9a+ sport climb established in 2012 by Adam Ondra.
Climbing and climate change
02/07/2020 - Environment
Climbing and climate change
How does our love for the mountains affect the climate? And what can we do to change this process? Germany's Lena Müller, who is currently doing a PhD on the effects of climate change at the University of Innsbruck and recently repeated the E9 Prinzip Hoffnung at Bürs, shares her...
Hazel Findlay repeats Johnny Dawes classic The Quarryman
01/07/2020 - Climbing
Hazel Findlay repeats Johnny Dawes classic The Quarryman
British rock climber Hazel Findlay has repeated the classic Johnny Dawes testpiece The Quarryman in the Dinorwig slate quarries above Llanberis in North Wales.
Climbing at Valgrisenche: Marco Sappa frees La Fessura di Gianfri at Nid Des Hirondelles
25/05/2020 - Climbing
Climbing at Valgrisenche: Marco Sappa frees La Fessura di Gianfri at Nid Des Hirondelles
Marco Sappa reports about the first ascent of La Fessura di Gianfri, a difficult trad crack climb at the historic crag Nid Des Hirondelles in Valgrisenche, Valle d’Aosta, Italy. The route is dedicated to his father Gianfranco Sappa, a Courmayeur Mountain Guide, who perished in a climbing accident in 2019.

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