4682 News found
10/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tibet's Jang Tsang Go climbed by Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson & Marcus Palm On 20 September 2016 Domen Kastelic, Olov Isaksson and Marcus Palm made what is likely to be the first ascent of Jang Tsang Go (6300m) in Tibet. The route is called Dom and graded AI4 M5.
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra Yosemite Dawn Wall update #3 Our third update regarding Adam Ondra and his progress on 'Dawn Wall', the big wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. The Czech climber has climbed to the top of El Capitan and unlocked the sequence to the crux pitch on this extremely difficult big wall freed by Tommy Caldwell...
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
05/11/2016 - Climbing
Chris Sharma / 'Perfecto Mundo' project at Margalef The video of American climber Chris Sharma attempting 'Perfecto Mundo' a possible 9b+ project at Margalef, Spain.
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Marek Raganowicz solo climbs Plastic Surgery Disaster on El Capitan From 5 to 20 October 2016 Marek Raganowicz made what is believed to be only the second solo ascent of Plastic Surgery Disaster, the A5 aid climb put up in 1991 by Eric Kohl on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
04/11/2016 - Climbing
Petra Klingler / climbing like a Bouldering World Champion in South Korea The World Bouldering Champion Petra Klingler from Switzerland reports about her recent travels to South Korea where she took part in the first Mudeungsan Bouldering Festival.
04/11/2016 - Alpinism
Via dei Balotini, new rock climb on Torre Argentina in Vallaccia, Dolomites In October 2015 on Torre Argentina in the Vallaccia group (Val di Fassa, Dolomites) the brothers Enrico Geremia and Nicolò Geremia made the first ascent of 'Via dei Balotini', a new rock climb to the right of Via Maffei - Frizzera.
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
31/10/2016 - Alpinism
Corsica, Bavella: Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia forge Ro.Ma. up Punta U Corbu On the 'most beautiful and famous big wall in Corsica', i.e. Punta U Corbu at Col de Bavella, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia have completed their 'Ro-Ma Project’ to create the new multi-pitch rock climb Ro.Ma. (180m, 7c max, 7a+ obl). Oviglia provides the details.
28/10/2016 - Climbing
Belvedere at Nago, sports climbing above Lake Garda Rock climbing at the historic crag Belvedere at Nago (Arco, Italy), with a splendid view across Lake Garda, presented by Vertical-Life.info as part of our series 'Crags for each season'. Download the Vertical-Life APP with the routes and topos free of charge until Saturday.
27/10/2016 - Alpinism
Aiguille d'Entrèves and the climb Cocktail entr'Eve et Salluard. By Enrico Bonino Enrico Bonino talks about a modern interpretation of the Salluard climbs (plus variations) up the West Face of Aguille d'Entrèves in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was climbed in two stages, on 20/10/2016 by Enrico Bonino and Andrea Racchelli, and completed on 22/10/2016 by Bonino together with Ilaria Sonatore...
26/10/2016 - Alpinism
Kyzyl Asker success for Ines Papert and Luka Lindič Alpinists Luka Lindič and Ines Papert have made the first ascent of 'Lost in China' (ED, WI 5+, M6, 1200m) up the SE Face of Kyzyl Asker (5842m), Kyrgyzstan.
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
British first ascents in Miyar Valley and Temasa Valley, Indian Himalaya British mountaineers Dave Sharpe and John Crook have made the first ascent of Raja Peak via their new ‘Transcendence’ up the mountain’s North Face above the Temasa Valley. In the Miyar valley the duo made the first ascent of ‘Last Chance Saloon’(1300m, Scottish 4, TD-) up James Peak (5780m), while...
25/10/2016 - Competitions
Stefano Ghisolfi and Janja Garnbret win Lead World Cup in Xiamen Last weekend the sixth stage of the Lead World Cup 2016 took place in Xiamen, China, won by Italy’s Stefano Ghisolfi and Slovenia’s Janja Garnbret. While Klaudia Buczek and Stanislav Kokorin won the final stage of the Speed World Cup, overall season victory went to the Poles Iuliia Kaplina and...
24/10/2016 - Climbing
Nalle Hukkataival climbs Burden of Dreams and proposes world’s first 9A boulder problem Finnish rock climber Nalle Hukkataival has made the first ascent of Burden of Dreams, his project at Lappnor in Finland, for which he has now suggested 9A. Should the grade be confirmed, this would be the first boulder problem to breach this difficulty worldwide.
24/10/2016 - Alpinism
British first ascents in South Georgia On the remote island of South Georgia (Southern Atlantic Ocean) Stephen Venables, Skip Novak, Crag Jones, Henry Chaplin, David Lund and Simon Richardson climbed 8 mountains, including the first ascent of the spectacular Starbuck peak and the remote and difficult Mount Baume, one of the highest unclimbed peaks on the island.
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