229 News found

On 22,23,24 December 2011 the Italian Mountain Guide Andrea Di Donato and the alpinist from Chile Andres Zegers ascended the South Face of Aconcagua (6962m, Andes, Argentina), establishing a probable 800m new start variation to the Direct French route.

Kazakh alpinists Denis Urubko and Gennadiy Durov have won the Piolet d'or Asia for the new route they established last August on Pik Pobeda (7439m).

On 5 October the Mountain Kingdom Cho Oyu expedition returned to Kathmandu, unfortunately without having reached the 8201m summit of the Turquoise Goddess. Fabrizio Beozzi managed the first ski descent of the Messner variation from 6900m to 6000m.

Following a large rockfall, the Chamonix guides advise against ascending Mont Blanc via the Goûter route, and camping is now prohibited at Tête Rousse. Furthermore, the TMB tramway now stops at Mont Lachat.

The Dent du Geant (4013m), a great classic in the Mont Blanc range, introduced by Gianni Lanza.

On 24/05/2011 Fabio Meraldi and Diego Giovannini established a new route up the East Spur of Kahiltna Peaks West (3914m, McKinley-Denali mountain chain, Alaska).

Interview with Andrej Grmovsek who over a three day period in January and February 2011 carried out an extremely important winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) together with fellow Slovenian alpinist Luka Krajnc: Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).

On Sunday 13 February Fabio Valseschini from Lecco, Italy, completed the first solo winter ascent of the great Via dei Cinque di Valmadrera (1350m, VI+ A3) on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites. After 7 bivvies on the mountain and an 8th beneath the summit, Valseschini completed the undertaking today...

Joel Kauffman reports about the ascent of Night Terror (VI WI5+ AI4 M7 85°) on Lobuche East, Nepal, carried out with fellow American Jared Vilhauer.

The Americans Joel Kauffman and Jarad Vilhauer have established Night Terror (VI WI5+ AI4 M7 85°), a stunning line up Lobuche East (6119m), Nepal.

Interview with Edurne Pasaban, the Basque alpinist who has climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.

Walter Nones has died on Cho Oyu (8201m), the sixth highest mountain in the world. His death has been confirmed directly by the wife of the Italian alpinist.

On 16/05/2010 the Kazakh mountaineer Denis Urubko reached the summit of Lhotse via a new variation from the South Col.

On 07/01/2010 Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner made the first ascent of the 300m "Centercourt" in the Gasteinertal. Graded WI7+, this is the hardest pure iceline in Austria and one of the hardest in the world.

On 9 July Ueli Steck from Switzerland reached the main summit of Gasherbrum II (8035m) along the normal route.

On 5 June Giuliano De Marchi, a doctor and strong mountaineer from Belluno, died on Monte Antelao, Dolomites. Michel Barbiero, his companion in Alaska 2007, remembers him.