195 News found

45 year old Arthur Kubista has made the first ascent of Der lange Atem 9a+ at Schattenreich, Höllental, Austria. Maurizio Oviglia recounts this latest ascent of one of the strongest and least known Austrian climbers of all times.

On 15 June Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia carried out the first free ascent of Umbras (300m 8a max, 7b+ obl.). They had made the first ascent of this rout up the N Face of Punta Cusidore (Sardinia) in 2008.

In June 2008 Diego Cociancich, Stefano Zaleri and Marco Zebochin made the first ascents of two new routes in Turkey's Ala Daglar mountain range, Obelix 6b, 340m and L’armata Brancaleone 7a, 360m.

From 21 September to 9 October an Italian team led by of Mauro Florit visited Morocco's Taghia, where they carried out the first ascent of "Mai molar berbère" on the SE Face of Tagoujimt n'Tsouiannt (TD+, 500 metri, max 6+).

At the end of September and the start of October Maurizio Oviglia, Sara Oviglia, Paolo Seimandi and Eugenio Pinotti completed two new multi-pitch routes on the Sergent rock face in Valle Orco. They then added two single pitches to the wall and another to the Dado.

On 23/08 Mauro Bubu Bole carried out the first repeat of 'Mezzogiorno di fuoco' (8b max, 7c obligatory, expo) on Punta Giradili, Sardinia.

Two new routes solo by Ezio Marlier, Spirito Libero (600m IV/4/M4) on Monte Emilius and Aragon (500m IV/4+/M6/A1) on Granta Parey, plus the solo repeats of some classic climbs on Mont Blanc du Tacul and Grandes Jorasses give some food for thought about climbing "without partners".

On 6 May Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of Mezzogiorno di fuoco (270m, 8b max, 7c obligatory) on Punta Giradili, Sardinia. The route had been established by Larcher together with Maurizio Oviglia and Roberto Vigiani in 2006.

The fourth edition of UP - European Climbing report edited by Maurizio Oviglia and Eugenio Pinotti and published by Versante Sud will go to press on 20 March.

On Tuesday 17 October Matteo Giglio and Germaine Roulet made the first repeat of "Omar ribelle" (250 m, ED+, 6c max, 6b+ obbl.), ascended in 1993 by Ezio Marlier and Salvatore Gagliano on the imposing limestone east face of Granta Parei (Val di Rhemes, valle d'Aosta).

During the first half of August 2006 the Italians Mauro Florit, Marco Sterni, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia traveled to Turkey's Guvercinlik Valley in the Ala Daglar massif where they established four new routes.

Denis Burdet, Nicolas Zampetti and Jacques Vouilloz have made the first on-sight of "Sul filo della notte", Taghia, Morocco

On 23 September Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Andrea Giorda, made the first free ascent of their "La cruna dell'ago" on the SE face Ancesieu (1885m, Vallone di Forzo, Gran Paradiso).

In July 2005 Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Michele Paissan made two first ascents in the Ala Daglar mountain chain (Southern Anatolia, Turkey): “Uc Muz”, 650 m, 8a max, 7b obl. on the east face of Demirkazik (3757 m); and “Mezza luna nascente” (270 m, 7c max, 7a+ obl.)...

On September 28 Martina Cufar, together with Marko Lukic, made the first female ascent of Hotel Supramonte, Gole di Gorropu, Sardinia.

Maurizio Oviglia and Simone Sarti have made the first ascent of "Enfant de sable" 7a max, 6c obl., on the south face of Jbel Tramazine, High Atlas, Morocco.