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arch. Matteo GiglioFirst repeat of Omar ribelle on Granta Parei
On Tuesday 17 October Matteo Giglio and Germaine Roulet made the first repeat of "Omar ribelle" (250 m, ED+, 6c max, 6b+ obbl.), ascended in 1993 by Ezio Marlier and Salvatore Gagliano on the imposing limestone east face of Granta Parei (Val di Rhemes, valle d'Aosta).
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 On Tuesday 17 October Matteo Giglio and Germaine Roulet made the first repeat of "Omar ribelle" (250 m, ED+, 6c max, 6b+ obbl.), ascended in 1993 by Ezio Marlier and Salvatore Gagliano on the imposing limestone east face of Granta Parei (Val di Rhemes, valle d'Aosta). 1993 was also the year when Ezio Marlier, Mario Ogliengo and Rudy Buccella established another demanding line "L'autunno del patriarca" up the East Face. Much like "Omar ribelle" this is bolt protected but characterised by extremely long run-outs and mediocre quality rock, and this is probably the prime reason why repeats of these two routes can be counted on one hand. The first repeat of "L'autunno del patriarca" was at the hands of Maurizio Oviglia and his wife Cecilia Marchi, who during their ascent also freed the line.
Nelle foto La parete Est della Granta Parei; Omar ribelle, Germaine Roulet sul quarto tiro (ph Matteo Giglio). |
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